2024-11-08

Big Heart Lake-Necklace Vally Loop, Washington

Another fantastic backpacking in Washington. 

Big Heart Lake-Necklace Valley loop in Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Total 24.6 miles (39.6 km) with 7300 feet (2225 meters) elevation gain

We did 2 nights/3 days, but the third day was only 1 mile. Did that way, because it was easier to camp in wilderness rather than hike out and search for a car campground or dispersed camp on the 2nd night. 1 nighter (full 2 days) is doable for this loop, but one needs to consider off-trail portion takes much longer than on-trail. Despite that,  some trail runners do this loop in a day.

Day1: West Fork Foss River trailhead to Chetwoot Lake

11 miles, 4000 feet elevation gain

First, the trail starts with rain forest. Washington gets a lot of rain for sure. It reminded me of the Hilo area of Big Island, Hawaii. It was another great trip we had a couple of years ago.








There is a very big tree! I don't know what kind of tree it is, but very tall as well as big diameter. Can you see the phone at the bottom of tree? It gives you the scale. 
Only a few mile hike in, you will see Trout lake. Some campers were still there for packing up. Since the previous night was big rain, I admired them. 
The trail is going up and up. The falls, Malachite falls (left picture) in the mist were pretty. Some people were day hikers going to Big Heart lake, some are only forest section to collect mushrooms. 
There is a 0.3 mile spur trail to Malachite Lake. It's only 0.6 mile addition, so we checked it out. Since nobody does spur trail (I admit that I am not a fan of spur in New England, but I DO spur in the West), it was peaceful and beautiful. Reflection of the mountains on the lake was amazing. It was cloudy in the morning, but some blue sky came in here. Still it was chilly and Mr.N didn't swim (surprising). We had lunch here. Our typical lunch is tuna pack and crackers. 
copper lake

Back to the main trail, now very big Copper lake appeared. Another nice lake. It is only 3970 feet here, but looks like alpine lake. Also, I was surprised that so many pikas live such low elevation. In Sierra, they live much higher elevation like 8000 feet above. Here you constantly hear "peeee!" during the hike. Interestingly, pikas here don't show up their appearance(shy),  although they are very vocal. In Sierra or Wyoming or Idaho, without effort, you see so many pikas. Here, even we stop and try to find where they are, because so many pika's voice was heard, it was impossible to see them. 


Little Heart Lake

 The next lake is Little Heart Lake. The color is attractive green. Compared to Copper lake, there is no access to the shore and the view is partially blocked. The trail quickly goes off the lake, but good to see a glimpse of it. 



Big Heart Lake
The next lake is Big Heart Lake. The left picture is the first view of Big Heart lake. Another different blue color. There are many kinds of blue here in one day. It is grateful to see such a variety of blue colors lake after lake. More importantly, they are all beautiful. 



Big Heart Lake
The edge of the lake has such blue color, then 5 minutes walk, the color changes and see the very big part of Big Heart Lake. The official trail ends here and most day hikers stop here and go back, which is 15 mile day hike. Day hikers usually take pictures and rest on the jammed logs you see in the left picture. From here, the off-trail section starts.  


Big Heart Lake

Although it is off-trail, clearly it used to be an official trail, since we saw signs of maintenance done long time ago. The old trail goes up and now see the Big Heart Lake below. More up and up, finally I was able to understand why it is called Big Heart Lake. The picture below explains clearly. 
Big Heart Lake


Big Heart Lake
Now the other end of Big Heart Lake can be seen. It IS big! I love the person who named Big Heart Lake. 

Other side of the lake is also different great blue. 
Other side we could see Trout lake below far away which was the first lake of the day. In the left picture, you see Trout lake in the distance and bigger Delta lake nearby. This can tell how much we climbed. Leaving the Big Heart Lake, the trail got more and more obscure and we took some time to travel. Only a short section after official trail used to be trail and other sections are actually off-trail.

Angeline Lake
The trail stays up, so it is not possible to go to shore, but Angeline lake is super pretty. This lake's blue is the most vivid blue I have ever seen in the wilderness. This is fascinating. 

Chetwoot Lake





Then we arrived at Chetwoot Lake. We set up a tent, and had delicious dinner. 




Day2: Chetwoot Lake to Necklace Valley, 1 mile before trailhead

13.6 miles, 3000 feet elevation gain

Chetwoot Lake

2nd day is sunny and we started the rest of off-trail. Going up the talus field and looking pretty Chetwoot lake below. From here some carin are helpful but took some time to find a correct route to the Iron Cap Lake. 



Iron Cap Lake

Another color is added to the list of lake colors at Iron Cap Lake. 







Otter Lake
Trail doesn't go there but Otter Lake was visible. I can't count the number of lakes anymore. 

Then great glacier mountain in the view!

Summit Chief Mountain, Middle Chief Peak, Little Big Chief Mountain. 

Chief series

Tank Lake with Chief Mountains! My favorite view of this backpacking. Someday I want to camp at Tank Lake. 
Tank Lake

After Tank Lake, it goes down down down the Necklace Valley. Once official trail comes back, it was much easier to hike. Love Washington hikes. 

2024-10-27

Snow Canyon State Park, Utah

 On the last day of 2023 winter trip in Utah, we decided to hike in Snow Canyon State Park. It is located in southwest Utah, near St.George. Since our flight from Las Vegas was 11 p.m., we had a full day. I read in the hiking book saying that Snow canyon is pretty, and it is not too far from Las Vegas, I thought it would be a good choice. It is $15 to enter the park. 

The canyon is really scenic. The rock colors are gorgeous. White, red, brown, and gray. We started a hike in the early morning without many people, which was nice. The hidden Pinyon lookout had a great view! Then we did Red Sands trail, then Equenstian trail, then lava tubes. By the time we reached lava tube area, many family hikers were there. Lava tubes were crowded with small children who don't know how to share the trail. That part was not my favorite in the hike. Then thorough Butterfly trail to Petrified Sand dunes, we came back to the trailhead.
The total 6.6 miles with 750 feet elevation change. After this hike, we had still little more time, so we did 2 mile hike just out side of the State park called Gila trail. From this trail you can look down the entire snow canyon park. It was very final hike with great view. 

Then we drove to Las Vegas, did car wash, filled the gas, returned a rental car and flew back to Boston.  


So many great places we hiked in just 2 weeks. Really wonderful trip. Looking forward to our summer trip to Washington state already.

Thank you for checking out my blog!







2024-10-25

The Enchantments, Washington

The Enchantments! 

The Enchantments is the wilderness area consisting of mountains and numerous lakes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the Cascade mountains, Washington state, USA. 

Why is it called Enchantments? According to the Wikipedia, when US Geological Survey's topographer found the area, he wrote, "It was an enchanting scene. I named the group Enchantment Lakes." About 100 years later he saw it, I can tell you that the area is still enchanting.

This had been on my bucket list for a while and I am grateful that I was able to see the area.

In general, "The Enchantments" hike means point to point 18 mile hike from Stuart Lake trailhead to Snow Lake trailhead. Either direction is theoretically possible, but almost all people do from Stuart to Snow, because that way to Asgard pass will be uphill (steep). Also, Snow Lake trailhead is more than 2000 feet lower elevation compared to Stuart Lake trailhead, so less elevation gain if start at Stuart Lake trailhead.

For a day hike, there is no need to get a permit, but for backpacking permit is required. The most challenging part of this hike (if you want to backpack) is not the actual hike, but to get a permit. Luckily we got a permit 2024 summer. 

After we got a permit, we thought about how we could maximize our experience. This opportunity won't come so often, so we wanted to see and feel the "Enchantment Lakes" area, which is located in the "Core Zone Permit", as much as we could. When I searched more, it turned out that everybody says only the Core zone is amazing and after Lake Viviane is not much to see and just a very long descent. I read that some reviews suggested turning around Lake Viviane is nice to enjoy the Core zone twice. In that way the headache of shuttle back to the starting point from the other trailhead at the end is resolved. Only potential bottleneck by doing so is steep descent with an overnight backpack from Asgard pass. With this thought, we headed for the hike without definitive plan and talked to several experienced local hikers on the trail to hear their opinions. One couple we talked to said that it is a good idea to do out and back. They have done Enchantments many times in all possible ways. After hearing that we were sure to do in out and back way. 

Now, let's talk about day by day itinerary. 

Day1: Stuart Lake trailhead - Colchuck Lake-Asgard Pass-Lake Olrun 

6.1 miles, ~4400 feet elevation gain

From the trailhead to Colchuck Lake is insanely crowded. Many people hike to Colchuck Lake. Day hikers for Enchantments usually start by 7 a.m. and we arrived at the trailhead around 9 a.m. meaning all day hikers we saw were heading to just Colchuck lake, which is 4 miles in +2200 feet elevation gain. Those people were really slow and some had music speakers, such kinds. Admittedly I am not a fan of those, but it was only until Colchuck Lake. Likely due to those people who feed wildlife, there are so many squirrels approach to you sitting along Colchuck lake. They expect food from humans. Not good.


Despite those factors, Colchuck Lake is beautiful. The color is mesmerizing. Also big magnificent glaciers are over the Colchuck Lake. In the below picture, you see the lake and Asgard pass route. Some backpackers doing Enchantments stay here at the first night. Since this is not the Core zone permit and easier to get permits, those who got permits only for this zone stay one night and go back the next day. I imagine evening at Colchuck lake would be peaceful and nice after the crowds. It was only noon at Colchuck, so we decided to go further. 
Colchuck Lake
Hiking up to Asgard Pass

As you can see in the left picture, as you hike up, the entire Colchuck lake can be seen. It is like a guitar shape. How pretty it is! The way to the Asgard pass is steep, but not difficult. Just following cairn is fine. About 2 hours of climb, we reached at the pass! Yay. The view got even more stunning in the alpine environment. The below picture is right near the pass. 
glaciers
Whoa. It is really stunning. Glaciers and lakes are beautiful but it is an unforgiving scene at the same time. 
After passing glaciers, glacier colored lakes appeared. Wow. I saw a divide between two lakes as you can see in the left picture and made me wanted to walk there and we did. They are Isolation Lake in the right and Lake Reginleif in the left. At this point, it was around 4 p.m. and we only saw 2-3 people in the distance. Suddenly it got very quiet and peace came. Loved it.

Camp at Lake Olrun

It was a time to set up a camp and we found a nice spot at no named lake. No single person in the visible distance. Really quiet and awesome camp spot (left picture, can you see our tent?). We enjoyed the scenery from last sunlight at Lake Olrun and the evening light from the camp spot. 
Lake Olrun


from camp spot








Day2: Lake Olrun-Leprechaun Lake, including off-trail side trip#1 Little Annapurna and off-trail side trip#2 Prusik Pass and Enchantment Peak

 8 miles (unsure due to off trail), ~ 2500 feet elevation gain 

First in the morning, we started the day with a side trip to Little Annapurna. There is not an official trail but there is social trail with carins. It is about 1000 feet elevation gain from Olrun lake. 




The view is amazing. The above picture captures Lake Olrun, and the next picture captures Crystal Lake, Perfection Lake, Inspiration Lake, and Snow Lake. Also Prusik Peak, Enchantment Peak, Colchuck Balanced Rock, and so on. 
Never bored being at the top of Little Annapurna. 
The other side of Little Annapurna is all the undulating mountains. What a view of 360.
Marmot near the top of Little Annapurna in the picture. Their voice is so loud and echoes in the whole valley. Funny and cute. They say, "Peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!"

The sound itself is sort of similar to pika's, but much louder.




After we enjoyed Little Annapurna side trip, we went back to camp and packed up. There are mother and babies ptarmigan. Mr.N likes ptarmigan and got excited. 

Crystal Lake




Then we proceeded the trail. We saw beautiful Crystal lake below. 

In Washington there are wilderness toilets sometimes. Near this viewpoint, there was one and Mr.N went there and he came back quickly. He reported me that there was poop mountains inside and the lid was not able to be closed due to that. Ridiculous. I decided not to go there. Despite that, Crystal lake is amazing. 

The next enchanting lake is Inspiration Lake. Inspirational! Each lake has a different color. I enjoyed each lake differently. Lake colors must be different depending on sunlight strength and direction. 

Next lake is Perfection Lake. There is an island and the you can see Little Annapurna over the lake. Lake after lake and all are pretty!!! Then next is Leprechaun Lake. We set up our tent along the shore of Leprechaun Lake and headed to a side trip to Gnome Tran, Prusik Pass, and Enchantment peak. 
Leprechaun Lake

View on the way to Gnome Tarn
The way to Gnome Tarn and Prusik Pass is a used trail, not official trail. Since day hikers don't have time to come here, and most backpackers don't explore side trips, it is absolutely nobody and super quiet. I love the solitude a lot. 







Lake Viviane
Lake Vivian was seen on the way to Gnome Tarn. Also Temple Lake in upper and Snow Lake in lower side. Happy to see all the lakes at once. 
Gnome Tarn









Then we reached Gnome Tarn. Beautiful area surrounded by mountains. Reflection on the Tarn is beautiful. 

Prusik Peak has a lot of spires. Cool. 
Shield Lake and Earle Lake









Once we reached the Prusik Pass, other side got revealed and Shield Lake and Earle Lake can be seen. Pretty! Soooo many lakes in this trip. At the pass, it was 4 p.m., and we debated if we should do Enchantment peak. It is off-trail with 1100 feet elevation gain from Prusik Pass. Why not, we decided to do it! 



Glad we did it. The view is amazing. Here in the above picture you see Inspiration lake, Perfection Lake, and Leprechaun Lake. McClellan Peak over the lakes are massive and magnificent. Other direction is amazing too (left picture). What a color of mountains!

moon
Then we came back to our campsite at Leprechaun Lake. We saw full moon reflecting the lake and enjoyed the dinner. Although it was very windy and cold, the view paid off. 




Day3: Leprechaun Lake-Asgard Pass, including side trip#1 Viviane Lake and side trip#2 Inspiration Lake

5 miles, ~ 500 feet elevation gain 

goat

We started 4th day's morning with a side trip to Lake Viviane. We encountered a mother and baby goat! Very cute. The baby has apparently already been weaned, but still wanted milk and several times tried to get it, but the mother pushed hard back. It seemed that milk is tastier and easier for the baby. It was funny observing that. 


goat
Later they found a sunny warm spot and worked on cud. Even the baby was ruminating, meaning the baby is weaned (but still want milk). Can you see baby's cheek has a ball? That is indication of ruminating. After 10 seconds it is swallowed and the another ball showed up. It was fun watching that. 

Lake Viviane
Lake Viviane is really blue and calm. Peaceful morning stop. After we glanced at Snow lake below, we went back to our camp and packed up. 










We walked the shore of  Leprechaun Lake since it was very sunny nice day. Sooo pretty, isn't it?
More goat baby. Some babies are more vocal than others. One baby goat we saw cries a lot whenever the mother is a little away. Funny.
More. Smiling ^ - ^ 
On this day we decided to take a side trip to Crystal Lake. 








Crystal Lake
On the Enchantment hike, the trail is high above the crystal lake and not going to the shore, but there is a side trail to it. We were there all the way from other coast, why not going there? It was definitely worth it. The color is mesmerizing. Little Annapurna over the lake, which was photogenic. 
Crystal Lake




For comparison, the left picture is the same Crystal lake from main trail. Goat in the picture.

Inspiration Lake again
Then we got back to the main tail and started tracing back to the trailhead. Inspiration lake again. Color was amazing again. 


First we were thinking about going back to Colchuck lake, but we took time and it was around 4 p.m. we reached near the top of Asgard pass. We found a great camp spot with glacier view and couldn't pass it. We set up a tent there and explored the glacier area. In fact we scrambled up to the very edge of glacier. The below big picture is the really edge of glacier. Massive.
out tent with view

GLACIER!

Day4: Asgard Pass - Colchuck Lake-Stuart Lake trailhead

5.5 miles, ~4400 feet elevation loss

Next morning we descended all the way and concluded the trip. People say descending Asgard pass is brutal, but there is no problem AT ALL for us. I recommend not taking too seriously about all the reviews and blogs on the internet. As long as you are athletic, you are fine.

It was a fantastic trip.