SUPER INCREDIBLE place.
Lolipop hike + side trips = about 60 miles, 14000 feet elevation gain.
Permit is required from National Park Service for this backpacking.
Day1: Trailhead to FireCreek campsite, 3.4 miles, 350 feet elevation gain
We started late (again), because we were hiking out from Alpine lake traverse in the morning, then drove to the trailhead on Graves Creek road. Having a permit where to camp at is kind of a good thing for a pushing hiker (me, always wants to hike until at least 5 p.m, we can hiker more, more! type) is that we must stop at the place permit says. Meaning we get more rest time in the evening (although the last day we had to hike after sunset because only available permit was 20 mile day hike required). Olympic National Park's permit system is obscure, since this is still trial period (year3). They started permit mandate for the backpacking due to high crowds in the Enchanted Valley. Before the permit system started, camping was dispersed. Obviously, our camping spots used to be dispersed. I like the idea limiting a number of people in the area. Unclear thing about FireCreek campsites (and some others) are unlimited permits available on Recreation.gov and the sites are probably for maximum only 5 groups. We were a little worried how many people there when we arrive at the site after 6 p.m. Luckily there was only one other group there, so we had plenty of space and privacy. The site is right next to Fire Creek with nice stream sound.  |
| decaying Fire Creek sign |
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| Fire Creek |
Day2: Fire Creek Camp to Anderson Pass, side trip to Anderson Glacier Lookout, then to Camp Siberia, 15.5 miles, 4500 feet elevation gain |
| Enchanted Valley |
Day2 starts in the nice forest walk until Enchanted Valley. Passed several official camp (O'Neill Camp, Pirate Creek Camp) and several unofficial dispersed campsites until Enchanted Valley. A number of small falls on the valley in the Enchanted Valley and it was pretty. Interestingly there is a chalet in the valley.
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| Chalet |
We arrived at the valley at noon, and it was a perfect place to stop and have a nice lunch. We had tuna pack with crackers. We stopped long enough to take off shoes and socks to rest our feet. Some people seemed camping in the valley for 2 days or more: they were reading books, napping on the hammock.
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| Way up to Anderson Glacier lookout |
On the other hand, we continued hike up to Anderson pass where there is no view. To compensate, we did a side trip to Anderson Glacier lookout. The way to the lookout had wonderful view (left picture). Bonus is that there are so many huckleberries along the trail. I describe it the trail is made by cutting huge bush of huckleberries. The maintenance is not so great and even more huckleberries on the trail. It was nice to have berries on the hard uphill.
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| Lookout |
The view from the viewpoint was amazing! Left picture explains everything without me explaining. Clearly, it used to be all glaciers, but now moraine lake there. Still beautiful. We took time to enjoy the scenery.
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| bear |
Looking at the beauty of nature, I felt like something moved in my view. What is that? It was black and I carefully looked at and noticed that it was a bear! Why the hell bear in the moraine? Not many food obviously. Interestingly, he went up to moraine toward glacier and disappeared. Seems no food in glacier, so it was surprising but fantastic experience to see wildlife.
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| Camp Siberia |
Then we went to Camp Siberia and spent a night. Very big site and several groups were there on the day, but still huge space between groups. There was a falling apart lean-to on the site. It was not the quality to be able to called safe and nobody was using it of course.
Day3: Camp Siberia to Lacrosse Pass to Home Sweet Home including side trip to First Divide, 14 miles, 2000 feet up, 3000 feet down, then 2500 feet up
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| bear |
We started a day with a distant sight of bear (left picture). Early morning is the best time to see wildlife. Good to start a hike early. There are so many bears in Olympic! We hiked up to Lacrosse Pass and the view was amazing.
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| Lacrosse Pass |
Mount Steel, Hopper, Duckabush. We had a break here: why not? We didn't see anybody since we left Camp Siberia to go up to Lacrosse Pass and go down to Upper Duckabush camp (2000 feet up + 3000 feet down). We kind of learned why this was not a popular trail. From top of the pass to the bottom there were 20 fallen down trees on the trail and it was clear NPS didn't do much maintenance. Obviously used trail (seems very old) was made to avoid fallen trees looked like NPS has no intention to fix this for long time and in the future as well. However, just 20 of them and it was no too much problem to go through. Last year in the different section in Washington, we had 200+ fallen trees within 0.5 mile on the trail and we had to turn around. The last year's experience now stick to our minds and we think that we need to be careful about non-maintained trail in Washington. Compared to that, this portion is not a problem, but I see many people would complain a lot.
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| They cut logs a lot |
After coming down, near the Duckabush trail junction, surprisingly, we saw a volunteer group called Gray Wolf Trail Crew. They cleared up all the logs from Home Sweet Home camp--Upper Duckabush---O'Neill Pass--Hart Lake. We were extremely lucky, because those were the way we would go. Without their effort, we had to continue jumping on fallen trees, but luckily we did only 20!
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| Their sign |
The volunteer guys were really friendly and nice. The oldest guy is 75 years old, hiked into 17 miles in a day to start a week-long camp and trail work, and hiked out 17 miles in a day. He said that other crews were a little younger (late 60's). Their passion and love to nature, stamina, dedication to help community is amazing. One guy told us about a good side trip for the next day from Marmot lake to Hart pass.
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| Home Sweet Home |
Home Sweet Home (this is the official name of the campsite) is in the lovely meadow (left picture). There used to be a shelter at this campsite as well, but it was broken and still remnant of logs were everywhere. When I looked at Gray Wolf Trail Crew website, there is a report of their work in Olympic, and they uploaded a picture of shelter at Home Sweet Home 30+years' ago. Wow for 1) shelter was there 2) still picture was stored 3) the guy is around so long in the Olympic wilderness area
We set up a tent and did a side trip to Mount Hopper.
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| Fire in the past |
First we hiked up to First Divide, then Hopper way trail. Hopper way trail is probably the way to Mount Hopper summit, but trail is not maintained for at least 20 years. We were able to find remnant of trail for some time, but some point we completely lost the trail due to obvious past fire (left picture). Fire made huge amount of fallen trees and it was impossible to find a clue of old trail. Getting late in the day after 5 p.m., we decided to turn around.
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| trail sign |
Later we talked to one of the volunteer guys and he said Mt Hopper way trail used to be the way to go to Mt. Hopper, but due to the fire, it was not possible now. He said that one needs to go up to the river bank, then it is easier to scramble up to the top. He might be the one who still had Home Sweet Home shelter's picture. It is very kind of him to share the tip with us, since some people keep it secret about those things. He even shared the suggestion to go to Hart pass next day.
Day4: Home Sweet Home to Marmot Lake-Hart Pass, 10 miles, 2100 feet elevation gain
This day was fantastic. First, we hiked down to Upper Duckabush junction, then set up a camp at Marmot lake, then did a side trip to Hart Lake, Lacrosse Lake and Hart Pass. Trail to Hart Pass got abandoned by NPS, but still used trail can be found, because it is above tree line, meaning there is no fallen trees. According to the trail crew guy, there was a trail from Enchanted Valley to Marmot Lake via Hart pass. Now it is much longer to go from Enchanted Valley to Marmot Lake via official trail. By now I am certain the trail is too hard to follow between Enchanted Valley to Hart pass because there are many trees in the section. Despite that, the view from Hart pass was super duper beautiful. The view at the Hart Pass is my best in the entire trip of 2024. Below 3 pictures are my highlight of this backpacking trip. Memorable. Very lucky the Gray Wolf Trail Crew mentioned the Hart Pass, otherwise I would never see the view in my life.
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| Hart Lake |
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| Lacrosse Lake |
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| At Hart Pass |
Day5: Marmot Lake to O'Neil Pass, Enchanted Valley, Fire Creek Camp, 20 miles, 700 feet elevation gain
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| bear |
Before and after O'Neill pass we saw bear. The first one was on the open meadow, so we were able to observe it for long time. The second one hid in the bush after he noticed us, so it was a moment. It is grateful to see wildlife. Total 4 bears in Olympic National Park!
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| Glacier |
We saw another several good spots to see Anderson Glacier and it was beautiful and massive. The way to Enchanted Valley was all downhill, but long. I got a blister. Due to permit we had to hike 20 miles on the day5 and we exhausted when we finally arrived at Fire Creek Camp at 8:15 p.m. Luckily nobody was camping there, so we exclusively used the site for ourselves.
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| bear |
Near Enchanted Valley, we saw non-volunteer but National Park Service employed trail crews. It was strange they maintain that part, because trail is pretty good shape that section. They should work on Lacrosse pass and Duckabush section where so many fallen logs on the trail. Or they should do the part the volunteers did (rather than NPS relies on volunteers).
Day6: Fire Creek Camp to trailhead, 3.4 miles, 350 feet elevation loss.
Just 3.4 miles to hike out. We met a ranger at the trailhead starting his patrolling backpacking. We asked about if it was possible to camp in the non-designated but obvious dispersed camp spots. He said that email the National Park and they would give the permit. So if you know the area very well, it can be flexible.
All days are good weather and beautiful: this backpacking was fantastic!!!
