Showing posts with label Day Hiking in Europe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Day Hiking in Europe. Show all posts

2019-06-14

Ice Cave in Austria

<Japanese version is under English: 日本語は英語の後にあります>
I traveled Europe a few years ago by myself. One of the memorable hiking was in Austria. I went to see the world's largest ice cave, Eisriesenwetlt, in Werfen, near Salzburg.
The day I went to the ice cave,  I woke up at 6 because breakfast started 6:30. Every hostel has continental breakfast. Second day of continental breakfast was already boring (FYI: cheese, ham, boiled eggs, bread, tomato, cucumber, yogurt, fruits). 
At 7, I started walking to the Salzburg Hbf (during this trip I learned that Hbf is a central station in German, very important! FYI, Hbf is a shorten form of hauptbahnhof). 
The ice cave is located near the town of Werfen, 1 hour train ride from Salzburg. 15 minutes on train from Salzburg, it was already in the mountains. Train ran along the river and mountains. It was a beautiful ride. I took off train at Werfen but I almost missed the station. It was all of sudden (for me because the announce was only German and GPS didn’t work in the mountains). 
I went to a bus stop to get to the trailhead, but the bus didn’t come at all more than 45 minutes. According to Google, it should run every 20 minutes. The town was so small and only 65+ years old people were walking on the street. The bus finally came and I asked if the bus would go to the ice cave, but the driver said no. I had to ask a stranger where a correct bus stop was. He didn’t speak English but he said, “come” and took me a bus stop. “Come” in German sounded similar to English, but probably different spelling. Although the guy took me a bus stop, the bus didn’t seem to come. So I decided to go back to the train station and ask another person. I asked a person at the station, and he said the bus would come in 10 minutes at the station. He didn’t speak English and said in German but conveyed the message 10 minutes by pointing out his watch and I understood. It was hard but this is the foreign trip! An Indian family and a couple from Australia came and waited for the bus. Then bus took us to the trailhead. 
Beautiful view
 
To go go the cave, people need to hike, then take a cable car, then hike to go to the cave. The each hike was short but really beautiful. I fell in love with European Alps. 
The final portion of the trail is like this in the second picture in the left. 
trail to the cave entrance
Cave entrance
To enter the ice cave is allowed only with a designated guide. 10-15 people go to the cave together. German speaking persons are half, English half. The guide explained the cave structure at the viewpoints in German and English. The ice cave was really wonderful. I had never seen such a big ice. It was blueish and whitish, and half transparent. Inside the cave was dark, but at the viewpoints the guide lighted magnesium sheet (if I remember correctly). That was very bright and lit up the ice structure so beautifully. It was worth taking train and bus. I definitely recommend this ice cave!!!
Because it is prohibited to take pictures inside the ice cave, no pictures: meaning you have to go there.
After the cave visit, I came back to Salzburg and went to a house Mozart once lived. There were several pianos he used. I thought, “Seriously? There are only a couple of octaves! How could he play his piano concerts pieces?” They were like toys. I also saw many letters he wrote. His handwriting looked meticulous.
This day was quite packed, so I slept well at night.

数年前にヨーロッパ一人旅をした。その中で印象深かったハイク。

オーストリアのEisriesenwetlt。これは氷の洞窟。アルプスをハイクしそして氷の洞窟を歩くハイク。すごいの一言だった。

その日は6時起床、6時半朝食。ヨーロッパのホステルの朝食はイマイチ。やっぱり日本の朝食が一番だとつくづく思う。何はともあれ7時にホステルを出発。 まずザルツブルグの中央駅まで歩く。そしてそこからワーフェントいう街へ電車でいく。約1時間。ザルツブルグから10分程度でもう山の中を電車が走っている。綺麗。ザルツブルグに住んだら山行き放題だなぁ、と考えながら車窓を眺めた。”世界の車窓から”状態だ。

そしてワーフェンからバスに乗ってEisriesenwetltに行くのだがバスが来ない。バス停の周りには65歳以上を思われる人しかいないし、聞いてもドイツ語しか喋れない。やっぱり昔の教育では英語はヨーロッパではなかったのか?

バスが来ないので駅に戻り英語が喋れる人を探す。どうやらバスがもうすぐ駅に来るらしいことがわかった。駅にいたドイツ人のおじさんがドイツ語でなんとか教えてくれた。というかジェスチャーと時計を指してなんとか理解できた。

そしてようやくバスに乗ることができた。バスを降りトレイルを登り始めると。。。きゃー。景色が素晴らしい。1枚目の写真が全てを語ってくれている。アルプスは本当に美しい。いつまでも見ていたい。そして2枚目の写真が洞窟にいく最後のセクションのトレイル。”普通”の観光客はかなりヘトヘトになりながら歩いていた。

3枚目の写真が洞窟の入り口から外を撮った写真。

そしていよいよ洞窟の中へ。ここを管轄している公園のガイドと一緒に入る。保護地区なのだ。なので写真撮影も禁止。ということで残念ながら氷の洞窟の写真はないのだが、とにかくあんな氷の洞窟初めて見た!幻想的な氷の洞窟、ぜひとも読者にも行っていただきたい。


2019-02-03

Day Hiking in Italy-Gran Paradiso-Valsavarenche-Benevolo

Hike in Gran Paradiso Area #3 

 

Walk to Rifugio Benevolo and Truc Santa Elena/12 km out and back, 600 m elevation gain

On the third day we went to the same local coffee shop and tried to order Marccino but a bartender didn’t understand my pronunciation. The bartender was different from the day and two days before. So we ordered cappuccino.

The trailhead parking was large at Thumel. Already many cars were parked at 10 a.m. This was the most populated hike we have done in Italy. I don’t know why only this hike attracts people despite the fact all of the area is beautiful.


We saw pretty mountains and countless waterfalls from the higher elevation over the hills. I have never seen that many waterfalls at one hike. About two hours we arrived at the refugio but we decided to walk further because there were many people. 5 minutes walk after we passed the rifugio, there was few people. The reason was probably the trail was faint and there was much snow at the beginning of June. We sat down 300 m higher than the rifugio and had lunch. Further the hill, mountains were all covered with snow. It was like a frozen land and very pretty. I got a little sad because that was the last hike during the trip. I talked to myself that there would be next time.

Then we went to Milano near the airport to fly the next day to the U.S.

The hotel is called “Milan Hotel”. When I saw the entrance I thought, “Hummm, this looks suspicious” Anyway we checked in. They additionally charged 10 euro for tax. It was a hidden cost. The room was fine but three rooms had to share one shower and toilet. There was free wifi but it worked only near the reception area on the ground floor. Not in our room on the third floor. The shower was hard to regulate the water temperature. Sometimes too hot sometimes lukewarm and cold water was accumulated because of bad drainage. Just after laying down, two families came to the same floor and a baby and a kid cried hard. They got satisfied and quiet soon, and I had some sleep but soon I woke up because the room was tooooooo hot. I couldn’t go back to sleep and 4 a.m. came. The time we had to get up to go to the airport. Free breakfast was not available at that time. I took 7:10 a.m. flight from Milan to Dusseldorf. I had a long layover (6 hours and 50 minutes) there and finally flew to SFO.

2019-02-02

Day Hiking in Italy-Gran Paradiso-Valsavarenche-San Grato

<Japanese version is after English 日本語は英語の後にあります>

Hike in Gran Paradiso Area, Valgrisenche

Walk to Lago di San Grato/10 km out and back 540 m elevation gain

San Grato

The second day in the Gran Paradiso area, we again stopped by the same local coffee bar. The same bartender was there and she seemed to remember us weird foreigners. She kindly suggested that “marccino” instead of macchiato. It was layered concentrated coffee. I really liked it.

Then we thought that we arrived at the trailhead but we were not sure it was allowed to park along the road. Because there was no car, we got nervous, however, we believed that it was okay and started the hike. From the beginning, the view was very beautiful. I felt like I was in the real paradise. We had previewed this hike with a book that Mr.N had bought on Amazon with $1. The book said that the bridge on the Lago was collapsed and no idea when it would be fixed (even the decision went to Rome). We hoped that the bridge was fixed because the book was published in 1994.

We did find the bridge but it was over the big snow. We walked on the snow to the bridge then walked more on the snow. Then finally saw the attractive green lake, Lago di San Grato. This hike became one of my favorite hikes in my life. All the way to the Lago, there was only two of us. Absolutely no person. It was so peaceful and it was definitely a hidden gem. 

After lunch and nap, we looked at the pretty lake and mountain one more time and started heading back. Near the bridge, we saw an Italian guy with two dogs. He talked to us in Italian first but we asked him to speak English. He asked us to take pictures of him and his dogs. Then he asked if there was somebody else at the lake. He seemed to be worried if dogs were allowed or not. Mr.N said that there was no person and the Italian guy got excited. When the guy asked the question he used “ultimate” for it. Mr.N said that the word is used now differently. Then we went back to the trailhead and found more cars at the trailhead. That meant parking there was allowed. Maybe people did the same by seeing our car. Then we went back to the cottage and ate salmon, bread, Italian gelato, and fruits. We had another great hike in the Gran Paradiso. 

イタリアでのハイキング!

エリア:グランパラディーゾ・バルグリセンチェ

ハイキングはサングラト湖へ行くアウトアンドバック、10キロ、高低差540メートル。

グランパラディーゾのエリアで2日目のハイク。 

まず朝にコーヒーバーでコーヒーを飲む。バーテンダーの女性が”マルチーノ”というコーヒーを勧めてくれたのでそれを頼む。濃厚で美味しい。小さな町では英語を喋れる人が少なくなるので、英語でコミュニケーションできるのはありがたい。

そしてトレイルヘッドへとドライブ。トレイルヘッドの道沿いに駐車してOKなのかがわからなかったのでしばし迷う。サインもないし車も一台も止まっていないのだ。しかし、禁止のサインもないので大丈夫だろうと思い駐車。

このハイキングはMrNがアマゾンで1ドルで買った中古のハイキングガイドブックに載っていたもの。きれいそうだったので私が選んだ。ガイドブックによるとサングラト湖へ行く最後の橋が壊れてまだ修復されていないとのこと。しかしその本は1994年に発行されたものなので、さすがに橋は修復されていると信じハイキング開始。

このハイキング、最初から最後まで素晴らしい。ため息が出るほどの美しさ。冗談ではなくずーっと綺麗な景色が続くのだ。そして橋が雪の中にあるのを発見!橋を越えると湖が。1枚目の写真が湖。氷河からできた魅惑的な緑。湖の向こうにそびえる美しい山。永遠にここで景色を見ていたいと思いながら湖に見とれた。

ランチを食べて寝転び湖のそばで昼寝タイム。そして名残惜しいが元来た道をトレイルヘッドまで戻る。今度は下り。2−4枚目の写真が下って行くときに撮った写真。いかに美しいか読者もわかって頂けると思う。

帰りにイタリア人の犬を連れた人に写真を撮ってくれと頼まれた。英語で少し意思疎通が困難な部分もあったがなんとかコミュニケーションできた。

グランパラディーゾ、最高。

2019-02-01

Day Hiking in Italy-Gran Paradiso-Valsavarenche

I went to Italian Alps in June 2017.

Hike in Gran Paradiso Area #1 Valsavarenche/Walk to Rifugio Chabod

9 Km out and back 1000 meter elevation gain

We started the day by going to a local coffee bar in the town. All customers are Italian and we were the only foreigners. Good sign. Cappuccino in Italy is always 1.3 euro at a coffee bar. Better taste with cheaper price. I realized how rip-off the coffee is in the Bay Area.

Ibex

The hike started by crossing the Savara river. The river in the valley has tremendous amount of water from snow. The water was greenish and pretty. The trailhead has two more cars in addition to ours. One of them was Suzuki. I was surprised by the fact Suzuki is popular in Italy. Near the trailhead, we saw one female ibex. I didn’t know the animal but Mr.N told me it was ibex. Once it was near the extinction but they came back. We also saw some marmots. They are cute. We passed the power line and a ranger’s house (probably), then started switchbacks. We saw one guy with chainsaw working to maintain the trail. Other than him, there was no hikers all the way to the top. Although he probably worked on the trail maintenance, there were still many fallen logs on the trail near the tree line. Then there was another rangers’ buildings on the way. It has quite nice view, so I got jealous of them. Above the tree line, the scenery became splendid. Near the rifugio, we found the trail buried with snow, but rifugio was visible, so we just went there by hiking off-trail.  

On the way to the top, the Gran Paradiso appeared. It is 4000 meter high mountain and the name of this national park. It was completely covered by snow and possible glaciers. It was very cool and beautiful. Besides it, we saw high mountain range. So gorgeous and the scenery was all ours. We took a nap at the place with great view of Gran Paradiso. The mountain sometimes got covered with clouds, sometimes cleared up. The rifugio was not yet open, but four workers were working on to open it soon. On the way down, we saw 2 hikers with climbing gear including ropes, 2 hikers with ropes and snowshoes, 5 hikers with a lot of gears. All Italians. They probably would stay at rifugio even if it is not open. They just needed to bring all gears. It was a great hike.

After the hike, we went to a nearby bigger trailhead called Pont. There were 20-30 ibex. They were all males with antlers. It seemed that males stay together as a group but female alone. Males don’t care human but females are more cautious and run away. Ibex are such a beautiful creature.

Then we went back to the cottage and ate spinach soup, pasta, and fruits with outside table with great view.