Backpacking in Denali National Park, Alaska, Day1-3

Denali National Park in Alaska! 

This was our 2021 summer trip destination. We had been always dreaming of going to Alaska, and finally we went. Since the COVID pandemic started, the rental car shortage has been the problem in the U.S. The rental car cost is crazy high everywhere and we were thinking about having road trip with our own car. Meanwhile we found that there is a bus from Anchorage, where an airport resides in Alaska, to Denali National Park. Also, in Denali National Park, anyway most of the part it is not allowed to drive a personal vehicle: you have to ride a park bus. So it makes sense to do a trip without a car! The destination was decided in that way. 

Denali National Park is a popular destination for a lot of people, but majority of them take bus tours and they don't get off the bus. The park ranger said, "Most people's wilderness experience is through a bus window."

For us, wilderness is backpacking. To backpack in Denali National Park, you need a permit. The park is divided into 87 sections (each is called from Unit1 to Unit87). For example, if you want to backpack in the unit8, you specifically need a permit for unit8 on the specific day. Usual year, permits are issued at park on a walk-in basis, however, due to COVID, permits are issued in advance via online. (if you dayhike, you don't need a permit. Permits are for staying overnight in the units.)

Park's only one dirt road is 92 mile-long. This run in the middle of park from east to west. So, you jump into the park bus, take off at a unit of your permit, and start hiking. 

We had all permits for 2 weeks of our stay, and were ready to go.  

Our flight ticket from Boston to Alaska was on 8/27/2021.

Then, this happened on 8/24/2021.

This is the Denali website's announcement. 

Landslide Activity Closes Section of the Denali Park Road

Alert 1 , Severity ,closure ,,Landslide Activity Closes Section of the Denali Park RoaDue to a fast-moving landslide near Polychrome Overlook, part of the Park Road is closed for remainder of 2021. Wonder Lake Campground is also closed. Hiking and biking on the road are prohibited beyond Mile 43

From July 21 to August 25. the road sunk 6.5 meters (21 feet)! You can see the video of landslide and more detail on their website here.

All of our permits were the units where we needed to go beyond Mile43. Bummer. 2 days before our departure, we had to get permits before Mile43. We got an email from the permit office. We requested alternative units we were interested, but they didn't give us ideal units. We called the office and they gave not perfect, but better choice of permits. It was a little upsetting to figure out routes/map in such a short term, but we got ready and went off to Alaska. On the phone the ranger said they got 42 emails asking to change units for backpacking permits.

From Boston to Anchorage was two flights. Boston to Minneapolis, then to Anchorage. The 2nd flight was delayed, so we arrived in Anchorage around 1 a.m. We took Uber (luckily it was available from airport to hostel we booked in Alaska. Nowadays no ways to get Uber in Boston). After a long flight it was nice to lay down on a bed.

On the next day, we walked to REI to get a bear spray bottle and fuel canisters, because these items are not allowed to carry on into flights. Kindly the hostel (Ingra House Hotel) owner let us keep our luggage during we had chores. Then we had a cup of coffee at nearby cafe. Then we had a lunch: salmon and halibut. It was tasty! This was the only restaurant we went in Alaska. 

On the way to REI from Ingra hotel was very Alaska-ish. We had to walk on the sidewalk of big road. One point we heard "beeep!" and saw that direction. Somebody honked a horn. Well, this activity is so common in Boston, but here the reason is different in Alaska. The reason in Alaska was the freedom dog was crossing the road. The dog came to us and we pet him. He followed us for half a mile. Then again, the dog abruptly entered the car lanes. Cars had to slow down and beeped. One driver rolled down the window and asked Mr.N (not me) if the dog is his. Mr.N answered, "It not ours, somebody else's just followed us" then the driver left. Good, he asked Mr.N, not me.  

After we got fuel and we fueled with fish, we walked 2 miles to the bus stop to go to Denali National Park. It would be 6-hour bus trip to the park. Until this trip I didn't know how far the Denali is from Anchorage. The bus is about $100/person. It is not bad actually, considering all the cost for rental cars. The bus driver was knowledgeable and explain stuff. It was nice. On the way the bus stopped at Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge: some people take off to stay the lodge and other people could use restroom. There is a back terrace at the lodge and we saw a great view of Denali. It was really lucky. It is not common to see a clear image of Denali.The lodge staying cost is from $200-$300. Our camping cost? $0.

Denali

Denali and other mountains

The first picture is focused on Denali, and the 2nd picture is Denali and surrounding mountains. From left, Mount Foraker, Mount Hunter, Mount Denali, Moose tooth (two white bumps), then broken tooth. 

I hope someday I climb Denali. 

The bus stops at many hotels near the Denali National Park. We were the only one who camped at a Riley Creek Campground. So our plan was to take off at Denali Bluff hotel, which is the nearest hotel from the campground and walk 2 miles to the campground. Because the driver seemed very nice, we asked if it was possible to drop off near the campground. He said no problem. It was super nice no need to walk with giant backpacks and duffel bags. We gave tip for hem for the special stop. When we took off, somebody ran to the driver and asked how to arrange pick up there. He had the same problem at an earlier bus. He and his friend took off at a visitor center with giant luggage, but luckily somebody gave him a ride to the campground. He said as a return, he helped carrying our bags to the camp registration building. It was very nice of him. Great thing to pass along kindness. 

It was a cold night at Riley Creek campground. It was below freezing point, however, I had two sleeping pads, and down booties, down jacket, base layers, fleece jacket, gloves, and down pants, so I slept warm. 

Next morning, we packed up by 8 a.m., and walked to the Backcountry Information Center. From 9 a.m., there is an orientation. Attending an orientation is mandatory to pick up a permit. Rangers checked our bear proof containers (Bearvault and Ursack) and consult with our potential route for backpacking. The ranger was very knowledgeable and had a lot of suggestions. Very helpful! 

Then finally we went to a bus stop to go to our first unit. Unit29. The bus was 10 a.m. At Denali, there are two kinds of buses are running. Both are green, park's official bus. It is an old school bus. One is camper bus, and other is non-camper bus. Camper buses are for backpackers/campers only and rear section of the bus is for luggage shelves. The driver at the bus was Paul, who drives this green bus for 29 years! Green buses stop not only designated bus stops but anywhere at the road if hikers want to be picked up and drop hikers off anywhere if hikers want. Green buses stop for a while if there is wildlife to observe. On the way we saw three moose passing the road! Two females were running and one male moose chasing them. It happened to be a mating season for moose. Wow! Lucky. 

Then after a 1.5 hour ride we took off a bus at Igloo campground. Our unit, unit29 is Igloo mountain unit. There are several established campgrounds along the dirt road. One of them is Igloo campground. Only difference between backpacking and camping those campground is having restroom (not flushed) and bear boxes. Igloo campground has only 7 sites, so without backpacking with luxury camping items, you have some sort of solitude. For us it doesn't make a lot of sense to pay $17 only for restroom/bear box, so we chose doing only backpacking (permits are free). We sorted out food for each backpacking (we planned to do 4 different backpackings in the different units). So we packed food for the first backpacking and left the rest in the bear box at Igloo campground, then finally hit the trail! 

To be continued...

Kings Canyon Backpacking Day3 no.2

<Japanese version is after English: 日本語は英語の後にあります>

In the afternoon, he didn't refuse my offer to carry his backpack. It was scary to see how quickly the symptoms went bad. We wanted to climb the Cirque Pass and go down to 8,000 feet, but it seemed that it was not possible for Mr.N to walk more. Around 5 p.m., I pitched a tent and I advised Mr.N to lay down, because he was suffering to breath. He was coughing and spitting white foamy stuff from his lungs continuously. Nobody was camping nearby and I had no idea what to do. I went to see the lake in the evening. It was so beautiful. The beauty made me want to sigh, however, I became calm because I knew that being upset or sad wouldn't solve anything.

I was listening to his cough all night. I thought, "This is quite bad. I wish I could take over the suffering. If AMS hit a person randomly, I wish it was me not him....and his family will hate me." although I am realistic and not the kind that believes non-scientific things like taking over suffer.

Then the morning came. When he sat down on the ground, the coughing mostly stopped, but his eyes were not focused on anything. I made a cup of coffee. I felt better because he was able to have it.

At some point, I didn't see anybody but I think that I heard human's voice in the very distance. I went to the outlet of lake.

午後になると、MrNにMrNのバックパックを持つことを提案するとすんなりと受け入れた。午前中は自分で持てると言っていたが午後にはここまで弱ってしまったのだ。。。少しでも低地に行くためには一つ山を越えなければならない。なのでこの日に山を越えて高度を下げたかったのだがそれはどう考えても無理なのは明らかだった。

午後５時。テントを立ててMrNに横になるように勧めた。息をするのも大変になってしまった。咳がコンスタントに出て白い泡のようなものを５分に一度くらい吐き出している。肺に水が入ってそれを咳で吐き出しているのだった。周りには誰もいない。どうすればいいのか。。。。このままMrNは死んでしまうのか。そんなことが頭をよぎった。しかしここでパニックになっても何の意味もない。とにかく冷静を保つように努めた。

夜。一晩中MrNの咳と泡を吐き出すのを聞いていた。相当ひどい。この症状、私が変わってあげられたらいいのに。MrNの家族の顔が思い浮かんできた。といっても体が入れ替わるとかそんなことは現実には起こらない。

何とか朝がやってきた。MrNも横になっていたが起き上がりテントの外に出て座った。コーヒーは飲めるとのこと。コーヒーはMrNの大好物だ。これは少しいいニュースだ。今後どうするかを考えていると、遠くに人間の声がするような気がしたので、ハイカーが来るかどうか湖の方へ行って周りを少し歩いてみることにした。

続く。。。