Tramping (Hiking) in New Zealand #4 Aoraki Mt.Cook National Park : Sealy Tarns and Kea Point

Sealy Tarn Track

Type: Out and back

Distance: 4.5 km (2.8 miles)

Elevation change: 520 meters (approximately 1706 feet) 

Optional: you can continue hiking up to the Mueller Hut

Kea Point Track

Type: Out and back

Distance: 2.8 km (1.7 miles)

Elevation change: 200 meters (approximately 656 feet) 

Comment: Same starting point from Sealy Tarn Track, and there is junction. One to Sealy Tarn and Mueller Hut, the other is to Kea Point

Everyday we got up at at 5 a.m. and started activity at 7 a.m. All the way we came to New Zealand. Why not maximize the time of activity!? 

On the second day of Aoraki/Mt.Cook National park, we started hiking to Sealy Tarns. Tarn is a word used in NZ (seems like). I believe I had never heard it in the wilderness in the U.S., but maybe only me who didn't notice it, because I am not a native English speaker. Tarns are used for indicating small lakes or ponds in NZ. For me Sealy Tarns sounded like a silly tarn, so it was funny. On the way to Sealy Tarn is steep, but there is continuous view, which helped me to blow the tiredness away. Looking back the way I had climbed and saw the view of the picture below. Parking looked already small with tiny cars. Vast valley with steep cool mountains, once all covered with glaciers. Outstanding!

On the way to Sealy Tarn

Steps

The track has a lot of (read: A LOT OF) steps: it seems NZ tracks like to provide steps if it is well maintained, and popular tracks. These steps reminded me of our hiking friend, Mr.S2. He used to have knee issues and had to go slow on the steep trail with steps in Grand Canyon. I would not recommend this for people with knee issues. 

As I went up, I was able to see the Hooker Lake and Mount Cook/Aoraki in a different angle from a hike of a previous day. Besides, there is a good view on the left side of mountains. Since we started early and beat the crowd, it was nice to stare at that breathtaking view in a quiet setting. 

Beautiful Hooker Lake

From the Sealy Tarn, the trail continues to the Mueller hut. The trail until Sealy Tarn is track, after that it will be a route (how to call trail in NZ is described in the NZ trip blog #1). We tried tramping up some on the route, but as a ranger had told us before, there was a lot of snow and it seemed crampons and ice axe were needed. Also the rangers warned us there was avalanche risk, so we decided to turn around after 1 km of tramping after Sealy Tarn. Some people went to the Mueller hut really early morning and coming back to the spot we were taking a break. Mr.N asked how was the track and a guy said the snow is until thigh level. Also he mentioned it would be dangerous in the daytime. It was already a great view there, so we were satisfied. Later I noticed that I left my sitting pad at the break point. Sigh. It is better than other more important thing, though. The pad was only $14. This 2019 December there was much more snow on the way to the Mueller hut. Actually we had planned backpacking to the muller hut and camp there overnight, but we decided to skip it. It is wise to think that better safe than sorry, due to avalanche risks. 

At Key Point

After we came down from Sealy Tarn, we went to Kea Point. This is recommended for people with intention to have a nice short hike without much elevation gain. Although it is short, it is a spectacular hike. From Kea Point, Mount Sefton can be seen very well. It is gorgeous. It is so massive and I felt like I was sucked from its immense glacier. Reflecting the sunshine with blue sky, the blue glacier even looked more blue. 

There is a sign at Key Point how people figured out the way to the summit of Mount Sefton. If I remember correctly, first people climbed from the side in the picture, but later other side found be easier. 

After these two hikes in the a.m. we had lunch near the trailhead and headed for the next hike. 

Tramping (Hiking) in New Zealand #3 Aoraki Mt.Cook National Park : Hooker Valley Track

The first hike in New Zealand was Hooker Valley Track.

Hooker Valley Track

Type: Out and back

Distance: 11 km (6.8 miles) to the edge of Hooker Lake

Elevation change: 120 meters (approximately 400 feet) 

Optional: you can go up the ridge along the Hooker Lake, which is categorized Route

This is the most popular hike in Mt.Cook/Aoraki National Park. It is very scenic, easy walk on the extremely well maintained track. Trail is crowded in the afternoon and early evening. 

Hooker Lake

Aoraki/Mt.Cook

 

The trek is amazing. It had non-stopping view and the destination is the Hooker Lake. Mt.Cook can be seen over the lake. Aoraki/Mt.Cook is sharp at the top and seems looking down visitors from high point. It is a really cool and handsome mountain. 

Looking down Hooker Lake

As you can see in the left two pictures, it is not only Aoraki. The lake is surrounded by glaciers and snow-capped mountains. Sometimes sun shines on the glaciers, on the slope of mountains and sometimes clouds roll into the mountains. Any single moment is beautiful. Along the way all the change can be seen. I was continuously moved by the view, so the way to the lake was quick. Most people stop when they reach the lake. We didn't. We continued going up to the ridge along the lake. The trail is now called "Route" (please refer the Tramping in New Zealand #1 entry for the naming of trail kind). This portion was really nice, because nobody was on the route. We took time to walk on the ridge looking ahead and back and down at lake. All the directions were breathtaking. We sat down on rocks to appreciate the views and had some quiet time. Priceless.

Camping

A lot of bunnies

Only downside of this trail is crowded. I did it during the peak time of the day, so it was hard to pass some people who are standing on the trail or walking much slower than me. Usually when I go strenuous trails I don't pass hikers much, but this Hooker Valley track has all kinds of people who seem never hiked before. Most surprising outfit I saw was red floral dress with shiny sandals, and an umbrella (it was sunny... not for the rain but for avoiding sunshine). Now you can see what kind of track this is. 

Other spots along the trail which was worth seeing was memorial tower made by rocks for people who passed away during climbing Aoraki. Another one was a famous rock where the first woman who climbed Aoraki took a picture. It was 1910! In that era there must not be so much advanced tools to climb. I respect Freda du Faur. 

I think this Hooker Valley hike is a must if you stay in Aoraki National Park. It doesn't take long. We took around 3-4 hours including "route" portion. 

We camped two nights at White Horse Hill campground located in the Aoraki Naitonal Park, just at the trailhead of Hooker Valley Track. We had a sedan car and camped in a tent throughout the trip. Tent people are actually minority in New Zealand. Most people love camper vans. Several companies are especially popular: Jucy, Autobarn, Britz. It is interesting. During 3.5 weeks in New Zealand, I saw at least 200 Jucy vans, 100 Britz, and 100 Autobarn. I have never stayed in a camper van, but probably I prefer to stay in a tent.

At this campground, there are many bunnies. They are cute. In New Zealand, originally there was no mammals on the land (except for sea mammals like seals), so bunnies are not native. Without predators, bunnies seem to expand a lot here. They love grass here. The cost to camp here is a little higher side. $13/person per night, but it is inside the National park and very convenient. Besides, there is no fee to enter National Park, which is different from American National Park. 

Tramping (Hiking) in New Zealand #2

The first time I heard about hiking in New Zealand was about 7-8 years ago. My buddy at work showed me a picture of her mother hiking in New Zealand. It was in the beautiful area. I still remember our sarcastic conversation. 

My buddy Ms.M was showing me a picture and said, "My mom is hiking in New Zealand."

I replied, "Wow, it is very pretty! Nice."

Ms.M said, "It is miserable, huh?"

We were doing experiments in the lab and so jealous. 

Since then New Zealand is one of my hiking destinations on the bucket list.

For people who live on the northern hemisphere like U.S.A, New Zealand is a great destination in Christmas holiday season. You can escape winter by going to New Zealand where December is summer. Actually we tried to go to New Zealand in December 2018 first, but the flight ticket was very expensive. In February 2019, we found a reasonable price ticket for December 2019 trip and booked. After 10 month of waiting, the trip started. 

It is a long way to go there from Boston. 

On the way to go there: Boston to Houston, Houston to Auckland, Auckland to Christchurch. 

On the way back: Christchurch to Auckland, Auckland to San Francisco, San Francisco to Boston. 

19 hours of flying time + custom + waiting time at airport=LONG

Although the flight was long, especially US to NZ portion, it was not boring. Air New Zealand provides very good service! I saw many movies on the plane... I enjoyed Hustlers, The Sound Of Silence, some NZ short movies. 

Surprising fact on Air New Zealand was that there are some Les Mills in flight stretch videos. Les Mills is a New Zealand company which provides a variety of fitness/exercise programs all over the world. I am a big fan of BODYPUMP, one of their programs. I occasionally review BODYPUMP versions in this blog. I enjoyed a lot about their in-flight stretch videos. 

Food is good (I have to say Japanese airlines' food are better) and you can order complimentary drinks including New Zealand wine from touch panel as much as you can. I tried both red and white New Zealand wine. They were really good. 

Then finally we arrived at Christchurch on the south island of New Zealand. One thing you need to keep in mind to go to New Zealand with camping gears is that there is biosecurity check at airport. It is required to report what you brought and where you have been used with them, such as tents, hiking boots, etc. Our tent went into the check line. They opened and inspected if there is something stick to the tents that could impact the nature in New Zealand. The inspection was around 10 minutes and it was fine. My guess is as long as clean and free of dirt or small insects, it is okay. 

We rented a car at Dollar, then went to grocery stores to get camping food. Luckily Christchurch has a Japanese grocery store, we had found this online in advance, so we didn't need to bring so much staff from Boston. We got ramen, udon, soba, pasta sauce, anpan, Japanese snacks there. We bought the rest of camping food at New World market, which is similar type of store to Safeway/Market Basket in the U.S. 

Then we searched for a cafe/restaurant to have food. 

food I got

Coffee

On the plane Mr.N told me that New Zealand has a different meal style. Breakfast (in the morning, same as the U.S.), dinner (around noon, equivalent to lunch in the U.S.), then tea, then supper (equivalent to dinner in the U.S.). I thought, "Huh, it is interesting."

Then, the very first restaurant I saw in New Zealand has this big sign at front.
Lunch: 11 a.m. -2 p.m.
Dinner: 5-9 p.m.

I said, "Look at that!!! Mr.N!"
Mr.N was, "........."
Mr.N continued, "Maybe it is different now from when I was in New Zealand during student exchange 17 years ago."
I was, ".....OK"

We went to a different cafe and we had coffee and food. It was delicious! Definitely tastier than most restaurants in the U.S. with the same price. 

Campground

In the evening we camped near Christchurch. In New Zealand there are many DOC campsites, and many private campsites. Usually there is a box to put money, first-come first-served. The one we stayed was the private one (Rakaia huts campground), $8 per person per night. Showers are available for $1 coin. 

We used Wikicamp App to find a campground nearby or on the way to the next destination. There are a bunch of campgrounds in New Zealand. Some are free, but most are $8 (without shower), $12 (with shower) per person per night. No bookings are required. It is good for flexible trips. 

The next day we started hiking. 

To be continued...

Tramping (Hiking) in New Zealand #1

Tramping in New Zealand is amazing.

Tramping is a word used in New Zealand. Tramping means hiking, backpacking, walking in the nature.

First blog entry of our New Zealand trip, I describe the features of tramping in New Zealand.

Trampers in New Zealand can see a variety of scenery: glaciers, snow-capped mountains, dry ridges, vast fields of grasses, rivers, lakes, ocean, volcanoes, rain forests, deep green forests, etc. It is more than people expect. 

Trails are generally challenging due to its rocky terrain with many small ups and down everywhere and of course big ups and downs for high mountains. It is tough but at the same time it is quite rewarding. 

Good conditioned and well maintained trails are called tracks, and more challenging and less maintained ones are called routes. However, normal fit hikers have usually no problems tramping on routes. I did a lot of tramping on the routes. 

Trails in New Zealand are very well organized and information can be easily found. Department of Conservation (DOC) regulates and maintains all the trails. Each town and each National parks has DOC visitor centre and people there know very well about trails and really nice to visitors. It is important to check out those DOC visitor centres before tramping, because there are frequent trail closure in New Zealand. 

Trail sign

Trail sign

Trails are well marked. As you can see in the left picture, there is an orange arrow sign on the tree. In the picture trail is going to turn right, the arrow is pointing right. Above bush line (in New Zealand a tree line is called a bush line), orange poles are used as you can see in the right picture. It is a bush line in the right picture. For the first arrow sign to enter the forest, the arrow sign is a little bigger than usual arrow sign. It is well thought.

The New Zealand weather pattern is closely related to trail closure/open. In general, New Zealand gets a lot of rain, especially on the west coast. That causes land slides. Indeed a week before our arrival, 200 mm of rain (nearly 8 inches) per day continued 7 consecutive days on the west coast. This caused land slides and led to 20 days of road closure, which is a critical access road to the west. Also this large amount of rain resulted in many track closure including our planned hikes. We had a booking for the hut on the closed trail, so we went to DOC centre and got a refund. 

Heating at a hut

Bunk bed a hut

Huts culture is well established in New Zealand. There are a number of huts along the trail or sometimes off-trails. Huts for "Great Walks" (mentioning later) are very expensive: average $135 per adult, half the price for NZ residents. Great Walks huts are required to book in advance, usually 6 months in advance (!). Serviced huts are $15 per adult per night. Serviced huts usually have a warden during peak seasons, and there are heating (wardens provide coals/logs), kitchen area, sink, water (need to boil or treat), toilet ("long drop"), bunks with mattress. You can buy hut tickets at visitor centres. One ticket is $5. So for example you will give a warden 3 tickets for staying at a serviced hut. For a standard hut, there is a box to put a ticket in. 

As I mentioned above, Great Walks are featured hikes certified by DOC. In total there are 10 Great Walks (3 on North island, and 6 on South island, 1 on Stewart Island /Rakiura). Mostly 3-5 days hike per Great Walks, and because freedom camp (camping on the random place like do in Sierra) are not permitted along Great Walks, you need to stay at huts or camping area in front of huts. Most of Great Walks are not a loop, so you need to arrange a car shuttle, which is expensive too. I am sure those Great Walks are great, but personally the hut costs (and even camping in front of huts) are rip-off. Great Walk huts provide mattress, and basic kitchen area, no food, and $135?? Wow. European huts provide dinner and breakfast and shower and bunk bed for $70-80. Humm.  There are many many great walks (non-capital) in New Zealand, so we did a number of amazing great walks outside of "Great Walks".

Round Valley Regional Preserve

Round Valley Regional Preserve is a nice park in the East Bay, in the Bay Area, California. It is located in the east of Walnut Creek, and east of Mount Diablo.

Walnut Creek is an expensive town in the East Bay. The entire Bay Area is expensive, but Walnut is particularly expensive. AND it has this nice park. 

Iconic Easy Bay's hills

This is an iconic East Bay park: rolling hills, spread trees, grass, and wide trails. When you hike after the rainy season, these hills become amazing green as I wrote several times at this blog. 

Winter, however, these hills are all brown. This season is not as popular as green season, but I still love the East Bay's rolling hills. It is amazing to see the dramatic changes in these hills. It is fun coming back to this area in a different season.

Somehow, since I was little, I always like the open vista. East Bay's climate is really hot in summer, and then dry except for short rainy season, so deep forest can't be formed. Such weather pattern makes the hills are mainly on for grass with sparse trees. I like to oversee the coming rolling hills ahead from below or look over undulating hills. 

Another feature of East Bay's parks are cows. A lot of parks has livestock owned by farmers. They are sometimes on the trail. It is fun seeing them. 

East Bay's trail in winter and summer is not popular, because summer is very hot and winter hills are not green. However, I like this winter brown hills, too, as much as green ones. Besides there are not many people, so it is good.

A lot of parks in the Bay Area used to be place for American Indian tribes. This Round Valley Regional Preserve was home of tribes, too. According to the brochure, East Bay and San Joaquin Valley groups of native Americans met this area for trading.

Until I came to the U.S., I know little about native Americans. I am not a really big fan of history at school, however, it is interesting to learn Native American histories. A lot of mountains, national parks, forests, local trails are related to Native American histories and it can't be separated. 

Most Bay Area hiking trails are related to California Indian history. One of National Parks in Colorado, Mesa Verde National Park is all about dwelling of Native Americans. I would like to write about those trips on another occasion on this blog.

After I moved to New England, I think back winter in the Bay Area is NOTHING. It is just chilly. Of course Sierra has severe winter and snow, but Bay Area hiking is pleasant for all round year. 

カリフォルニア・イーストベイの公園、ランドバレー・リージョナルプリザーブ。イーストベイのウォルナッツクリークという街、マウントディアブロの東ににある公園だ。ウォルナッツクリークはイーストベイの高級住宅街。大きな家に素敵なトレイルがすぐそばにある。。。羨ましいものだ。

私はここのトレイルが大好き。イーストベイ特有のローリングヒルズ、散らばった木々、広いトレイル。冬は茶色、春は緑に全体が染まる。その変わり方はすごい。イーストベイの夏は蒸し暑い。イーストベイがベイエリアの中で一番変化に富んだ場所かもしれない。

もう一つイーストベイの特徴は家畜の牛が公園で放牧されていること。時々、牛がトレイルに立ってたりして面白い。まあハイカーが近づいて行くと普通は逃げるがたまに逃げないヤツもいる。

さらにもう一つ、ここはかつてはネイティブアメリカンがいたところ。ほとんどのベイエリアのハイキングの場所はネイティブアメリカンが住んでいたところだ。ここは イーストベイのトライブとサンジョキアンバレーのトライブが時々あって物々交換などをしていたと考えられている。

アメリカの国立公園や森、山などはほとんどが元々はネイティブアメリカンが住んでいたところが多い。ベイエリアもそうだし、例えばコロラドにあるメサバーデ国立公園はネイティブアメリカンの住居跡をフィーチャーした公園だ。いつかメサバーデに行った旅もブログで書きたいと思う。

ベイエリアにも一応冬はあるが、ニューイングランドに来てから思うと、厳寒とは言い難い。。もちろんシエラは厳寒だが。

 

BODYPUMP 99 Review

BODYPUMP is a workout program by Les Mills and great for keeping a good hiking body.

My training is written here at How to Stay in Shape for Big Hiking 

BODYPUMP has new releases every 3 months and currently newest version is 111. 

My gym has 4 BODYPUMP instructors. 3 of them keep up with the newest version always. However, 1 instructor knows only version 80 to 99. I don't know exactly which versions she knows, but always version 80's or 90's and she has never done after version 100 nor older than version 80. 

So I have actually opportunity to learn relatively old versions, despite the fact I started Bodypumping a little after 107 was released. 

So today I will review version 99.

So now, each track's review.

Track1: Warmup

Music: Mad World (Radio Edit) by Hardwell feat. Jake Reese

Nice light rhythm for warmup track. Some clean and presses with power presses. 

Track2: Squats

Music: Power Glove by Knife Party

Not too hard like version86, but some repeats of "4 singles + 4 bottom half" are tough. Still doable. I increased my weight recently when ver.111 was released and I was able to do this version with that. My current weight for squats is 27 kg. 

Track3: Chest

Music: In The Dark by 3 Doors Down

This is SOOOOOO hard. It is the hardest chest track I have ever done. Using a bar during the entire track, so lighter weight than usual is better.

A lot of 8 bottom half and ALSO 16 bottom half. I had to decrease the weight since I didn't know this is such a tough one. 

Track4: Back

Music: Winterburn byAndrew Rayel & Digital X feat. Sylvia Tosun

Not a hard one. It is funny doing after recent ones (109-111), it is simple. No high-pull no pull like that.  4 clean and presses usually and only 1 of 8 clean and presses.

Music is a little too quiet, but OK.

Track5: Triceps

Music: Something In The Way You Move by Ellie Goulding

Although there are many bottom half with a bar, it is not a very hard one either. However for me I got tired at chest track, so that damage came a little. 

I feel Les Mills likes lady songs for Triceps. This is a good song for triceps. Well fit.  

Track6: Biceps

Music: Emperor’s New Clothes by Panic! At The Disco

This is a very good one. Not too hard, but hard enough. Feels like 3-1 lasts forever. AND a lot of pulse pulse pulse pulse....

Song is great. 

Track7: Lunges

Music: Won’t Stop Rocking by R3hab & Headhunterz

With a bar for the entire track.

First 1/3 is squat.

Then a lot of 3 pulse + 2 single lunges. The hardest part is twice there is 16 bottom half squats!

Track8: Shoulders

Music: Old Skool byArmin van Buuren

The hardest part is the last shoulder press. 2X (8 overhead press then 8 overhead press with legs) meaning 32 consecutive presses. 

This definitely makes my shoulder ON FIRE.

The song is great. Generally Les Mills brings good beat song for shoulder tracks.

Track9: Abs

Music: Work by Rihanna feat. Drake

This was my first time doing speed-crunch. Wow. It is a punch. Hope it will help someday I have six packs. 

Track10: Stretch

Music: Torches by Daughtry

Basic. Good song for strech.  

Overall ver.99 is not the hardest, but chest is the real killer. 99 has a lot of 16 pulse, which is probably the feature. It made me realize I still need to grow more chest muscles.

LOVE BODYPUMP!

Great Meadow National Wildlife Refuge

Late November we went small 5 mile hiking in the Great Meadows National Wildlife Refuge in Concord, Massachusetts. The trail here are along Concord river and impoundment. We had before kayaked on the Concord river of this portion and saw hikers walking along. We thought that it might be interesting to hike in this area, so now we came. 

Hike started with dike trail east. It was peaceful area. As you may notice, this area has a lot of birds, and therefore it is National Wildlife Refuge. Continuously you can hear the songs of birds. It must be very good to live for birds. There are trees, ponds, river, and marsh grounds. Tree sections and marsh land area is clearly separated. One side of trail is forest and river, and the other side is marsh meadows without trees with vast view. This is not a type of hike to climb and check the hard mountains, but ambling and listening to the birds. 

One thins I had to be very careful was poison ivy. There is a big sign to make hikers realize that the area is poison ivy. Poison ivy contains oil called urushiol and it can cause very irritating and itchy rashes on your skin. I am extremely sensitive to the oil. 

My history related to urushiol started a number of years ago in California. In California, there is a huge habitat of poison oak. Poison oak and poison ivy has the same oil, urushiol. This oil is actually the reason why the plants are called poison. When your skin gets contact with the oil, the rash will come in 1 or 2 days later. It is all immune response. 

As an immunologist, I will tell you what happens. First of all, the oil itself is not toxic at all. However, the oil is absorbed in the skin and conjugates with protein in the skin, it will cause immune responses. That conjugation takes at least several hours, so the rash comes later. Oil-protein conjugation is now recognized by immune cells in the skin, then those cells migrate into lymph nodes, then immune memory will be established. This steps takes up to 24-48 hours. After that, finally many immune cells infiltrate into the area oil was contacted, then rash will happen. 

The rash is not only ugly in appearance, but it is super itchy. I am okay if it is just rash on the skin. Being itchy is unbearable. It is 100 times itchier than mosquito bites. It is too itchy to work and sleep. When I had bad rash everywhere, I had to put ice packs on the rashes to work. Otherwise, it was too itchy to do anything. I put ice packs when I go to bed and I woke up by feeling itchy in the middle of night because ice packs fell from the rash area. The rash last 1 week to a month depending on how severe it is. 

Although it is super itchy you should not scratch. If you scratch, you will be likely to be infected by bacteria in the nail. If this happens, antibiotics are necessary. 

Treatment for rashes is steroid cream. Depending on severity, steroid intensity will be determined. 

I have experienced from mild to very severe ones many times. My immune memory was completely established, so I am so sensitive to poison ivy and poison oak. Even if I pass near the poison oak I get rash. 

So everytime I come back from hiking when I saw poison ivy/oak, I wash my body with Tecnu. This detergent can extract oil from skin. Be careful. If oil-protein conjugation process is already done, this wash doesn't work. Washing should be as soon as possible after finishing hike. 

Luckily poison ivy is not abundant compared to poison oak in California. Massachusetts is too cold for poison ivy but California is great for poison oak. 

Now on this post, more poison ivy/oak than actual hike, but this is very important!