Walnut Canyon National Monument

As I wrote in a previous entry here, 17 hour hike in the wet hiking shoes made my left foot hurt. My left foot is slightly bigger than right foot. If I buy a pair of shoes, always left foot feel small, but right foot is perfect. In general, hiking makes feet swollen. If 17 hours in a shoe with swollen foot? Not good. In this trip, it got worse because the shoes were wet. 

Due to this, we changed our plan and decided to do short hikes for a couple of days. Originally we were thinking about Subway in Zion, but we instead went to a couple of more National Monuments. Actually I didn't know there are many National Monuments in Utah and Arizona.

A day after we hiked Natural Bridges National Monument, we went to Walnut Canyon National Monument. 

Cliff dwelling

About 900 years ago, in the Walnut Canyon, cliff dwelling started being built. In this canyon, so many dwelling can be seen. In the left picture, you can see some dwelling. It is amazing that they built home literally in the middle of canyon!

People who lived there are not known where they were from, but it is known that most likely plenty of plants and animal in the area attracted them. They hunted and gathered plants, as well as farmed. 

Their home

The main trail is the Island trail, which is a 0.9 mile loop trail. You can walk along the many of dwellings. There are a lot of signage and explanation of culture. It was fun learning their lives in the past. 

Their dwelling is cool. As you can see in the left picture, they were built by utilizing cliff structure. Walls are with stones and clay. Archeologists think the home was built by women. I wonder what the evidence is coming from, though. They took DNA from wall and it was always XX chromosome or something?

door and hole for smoke

The left picture is interesting. The entry door and a hole for the smoke. They used fire inside, so the smoke needs to be go outside. The top small hole is the one. You notice that the top of the entry door has log.
You can see the door top portion picture in the right picture. 

door top

in the bottom picture, you can see how the trail is next to the dwelling. It is fun, right?!

dwelling

One of the signs along the trail explained that people shout each other to the other side of house in the canyon, and also communicated with torch. Very interesting. 

People occupied these for 100 years, then they left. Why did they leave? No clue. It is considered that these people were assimilated into Hopi culture. 

In 1880s, this became a popular place for souvenir hunters and a lot of stuff was destroyed. Then 1915, to protect this area, this became National Monument. 

It was a nice little walk to explore here.

Natural Bridges National Monument

I loved Natural Bridges National Monument so much!

Until we planned 2021 winter camping trip, I had never heard of Natural Bridges National Monument. I first choose Kane Gulch/Bullet canyon backpacking (wrote about in a previous entry), then I found there is Natural Bridges National Monument nearby on the map. I wondered, "Oh, what's this?" Because I love natural bridges, I looked up and found there are three bridges there. Why not checking them out if we were going to be close by!?

Natural bridges are made by running water force. Thus you would find stream or river under bridge or nearby, although not always water in the stream in the desert. On the other hand, arches are made by not the erosion of moving water, but by other forces. 

Owachomo bridge

By erosion state, bridges can be categorized young, middle, or old. In the Natural Bridges National Monument, there are three different age's bridges. 

Owachomo bridge is an old one and no longer erode by moving water, but now by others like frost. As you can see in the picture above, Owachomo bridge is very thin! It is no surprise it get collapsed tomorrow. However it could stand for 300 years more. 

Owachomo bridge is very distinctive, big bridge. It was really exciting to see it in person. The photograph gives you a sense how massive it is. When you are close, you will feel that sense 10 times more. It was super lucky to have the view only for us. From the side I was taking above picture, maybe it looks not too thin, however, now look at the below picture. This picture was taken from the other side from above. It looks really thin and I was convinced that it could fall this moment.

Owachomo bridge

 

Kachina bridge

Now the opposite: young bridge, which is Kachina bridge. As you can see in the left, it is very thick. It was very thick so I didn't even notice for minutes that there was a bridge ahead when I was walking on a dry creek. You see stream (although it is dry currently) is under the bridge. We sat there in the sun under Kachina bridge and had chocolate. What a luxury spot to eat chocolate. Extra happy.

Kachina bridge

It was hard to get the image to show how thick and immense Kachina bridge is. The left picture might tell you that feeling. 

It was good to see nice blue sky from both side of bridge!

Sipapu bridge

Sipapu bridge is the middle one. This is handsome and photogenic. Span is the biggest among the three. Close to the point I took the picture above, there was a ruin under alcove. Nice to live with this view, although I am sure the weather was tough at times. 

rock art

In this monument, you can hike all the three bridges in a loop (8 miles). Also you can see (look down bridges from above) them from overlook point on the scenic drive loop road. If you don't have time to hike, it is worth driving around. 

 

 

Nice view

Another option is hike 1 mile to the each bridge from road. We hiked (you can imagine?) 8 miles and saw many more that can't be seen from road. For example, these rock art. Hand stamps and maybe animal.

Hiking between those three bridges are in the canyon. It is quite a dramatic view. Some pictures in the left. Interesting rocks and good winding canyons. I can understand why these bridges were created by moving water force. 

Between bridges are canyon

It was really nice to be out there. Recommended destination for all fellow hikers!

Kane Gulch and Bullet Canyon Backpacking

First backpacking of 2021 Winter camping trip was Kane Gulch and Bullet canyon in the Cedar Mesa area in Southern Utah. This was definitely one of the most EXCITING backpacking I have ever had. BUT also one of the scariest backpacking as well! You will see.

Total distance was about 25 miles according to the map. However, due to snow, we had to do faint trails and off-trails in the canyon, it took way more time than usual hiking pace (for sure actual hiking distance will be more than 30 miles due to that). Besides, there are so many places in the canyon to explore ruins and pictograph and petroglyph. In fact I call this trip museum tour backpacking.

This is a point to point hike. We had only one car, so the plan was to hitch to come back to the starting point. If no luck, we would need to walk 8 miles on the road at the end.

Kane Gulch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Impressive rock

The hike starts at Kane Gulch ranger station. In December at -10C (15F), of course the ranger station was closed. Without surprise, there was no car in the parking. Luckily you could park there overnight despite the closure. At the trailhead there is a self-permit pay station: $15/person. The register book indicated that the last person who hiked there was 2 weeks ago. However there were some footprints on the snow clearly, so I was sure not everyone signed. The trail was all snow-covered, but due to foot-prints path was clear. 

Cool rock

Because no guarantee of water source, we carried all the water, which was heavy. Well that is the way backpacking in desert. I liked the scenery a lot from the beginning. Massive canyon with snow decoration was pretty. Although it was cold, sun and walk made me keep warm all the time. I love the air quickly warmed up by sun in the desert. Favorite part of West! Absolutely no human around, and the canyon was super peaceful. 

 

kiva at Junction ruin

After some miles, we reached the first attraction: Junction ruin. It is called that way because it is at the junction of Kane Gulch and Grand Gulch. Usually ruin is under alcove with several buildings, kiva, granaries, and pictographs.

 

The right picture is a kiva, where ceremony was held. It is a round shape wall. You could see large log (it is cut) used to be connected to the other side of log. What kind of ceremony was held? When and for what? No way to know, but exciting to see that. 

Junction ruin

 

These left pictures are more building under the same alcove. Some are small, so must be granaries, not the living place. We had lunch here and I was imagining how people who lived were feeling. They could have had lunch at the same spot as me. It was amazing that this ruin spot is really warm. I was able to take off down jacket and shoes. Sun directly hits this massive rock and warms up the area. Just one fleece jacket at -10C(15F)?!

 

 

Junction ruin

I found that in the Kane Gulch/Bullet Canyon, temperature is very different depending on a micro-environment. For example, this Junction ruin micro-environment is one of the warmest spot in the gulch. However when we walk in the dried-up wash with snow, it was super cold and I needed 2 down jackets even while I was walking. Anasazi people must have known every single spot where is cold and warm, and of course they built ruin at warm spots. 

 

 

Another interesting stuff at ruin is some remnant of their lives. Below pictures are pieces of their pot or bowl. Most are nicely decorated with either painting or carving patters. Also the tool to grind crops are amazing to see still left here. Rocks used for that is so smooth.

At Junction ruin

At Junction ruin

 

At Turkey Pen Ruin

After a nice lunch break, we continued hiking. The footprints were found until Junction ruin, but no more beyond there. It seems some day hikers' destination was the Junction ruin. The trail got much deep in the canyon and sometimes hard to find a path. Then soon after, we reached the next nice ruin. Why it is called that way? The picture left explains it. 

At Turkey Pen Ruin

There are good amount of pictographs at this ruin; some are animals some are human. Some are humans' hand prints. Hand's size are mostly same or slightly bigger than mine. I wonder if everyone in the clan put hand print as a depository.

At Turkey Pen Ruin

The picture in the right might be granaries. Interestingly, you can see the covering of entrance is still remained. The left small door you can see flat sized rock leaned along. We found a lot of these rock door covering or just along the door. How amazing the exact fit size of flat rocks were used. Or flat rocks were first found and Anasazi people made door to fit the rock?

At Turkey Pen Ruin

Then another interesting is leftover of their food: corn. Anasazi people farmed corn. The picture in the right is their corns. I was surprised how small their corns were. Each corn is about the size of finger. In the desert it must have been hard to farm as good as now with more technologies. Once when I went to Mesa Verde, the rangers said that most people had a lot of cavities by sugar from corns.

Stimper Arch

After the Turkey Pen, an impressive arch showed up in the left. Stimper Arch. Up high with a big hole. Whoa. I love arches. This route has continuous attractions and so much fun. 

 

After that more interesting formation of rocks appeared.

Rock in Kane Gulch

Rock in Kane Gulch

Junction Ruin and Turkey Pen Ruin are big and most noticeable ruins in Kane Gulch. Most hiking books mention these two and Split Level Ruin (will be mentioned later), but in fact many more smaller ruins and granaries exist along the gulch. Actually a number of ruins/granaries exist in the Cedar Mesa area. One of this is as below picture. Can you see the buildings in the middle of vertical cliff under alcove? We left backpacks and tried to find a way to inspect it close. You can see the backpack was left there. Above backpack point it was too steep to climb up. The point I was taking the picture was the highest I could climb. Sooooooooo, how Anasazi people reached there? They had ladders or ropes to go there? Or they climbed almost vertical cliff? I know in Mesa Verde, people living in cliff dwelling were super good at rock climbing. Maybe here in Anasazi were the same. This might be a granary not living place and this cliff prevent animals from having access to food in the granary. There are a handful of buildings like that where it was inaccessible for hikers (but obviously Anasazi could and even built them).

unnamed ruin

zoomed picture

And the left picture was zoomed one. It is amazing still the structure was mostly kept. Rocks were stuck together with some clay, and logs were a part of structure. Many holes were probably logs were there before. The buildings were nicely under the "roof" of rock formation. This shape must have protected food or people whatever in the building. 

 

Then after a short walk, we reached the Split Level Ruin. This is my favorite ruin of this trip!!!

Split Level Ruin

 

roof

 Above picture explained why it is called Split Level Ruin. It is multiple level ruins with nice door, window and roof. It is quite a big ruin with many living area, storage area and activity area. The most low level room in the above picture's roof is in the left picture. The core of roof is made by logs. It was exciting to see such a structure remained. Also it is so much fun exploring and inspecting ruins in the close distance.

Split Level Ruin

Left picture is another building of nice entrance. Door is structured with logs. Most of the times when I look inside of these buildings, I found corns. It looked like they ate a lot of corns. I wonder how they ate corns. Just as corns or, made flour? Based on so much grinding stone and smoothed rock area, maybe they made a lot of flour for non-farming season.

Split Level Ruin

And the left picture, can you see the entrance door blocking rock on the ground? Very flat rock looked like to use close the entrance area. They found flat size rock or they cut?After we explored a lot and enjoyed, it was around 5:30 p.m. Since we found a great flat spot nearby, we decided to camp around. Similar to Junction Ruin, the micro-environment was warm here. Sun hits this alcove and warms up air here, then the warm air sits there all night around here. It was a full moon night, and it was really light even after sunset. I went back to the Split Level Ruin with moon light. It was really pretty and liked it a lot. I felt like Split Level Ruin with moon light is a bit surreal and I even felt like Anasazi people were living there or soul still live there.

Despite the light it was still full of starts visible. For this trip I bought a small toy size tripod and took star pictures.The picture is long-exposure taken is below. Many stars were visible with naked eyes, but with long exposure you realize much more stars are in the sky.

from campsite

Granary

Petroglyph

Next morning we got up at 3 a.m. Because the first day we only hiked 12 miles and day2 would be 18 miles + hitchhike or road walking of 8 miles, we needed to start early. These pictures above were taken when it was still dark. You can tell the photographs were taken with head lamp. It seemed like these were granaries since too small for human to get in.  

Hiking in the dark was sometimes interesting. We saw moving shining 4 circles. The circles were moving. If you are a cat lover, you might know cat eyes are shining circles in the dark by reflecting light. We saw those shining circles in Hawaii a lot since there are a lot of feral cats in Hawaiian campgrounds. In this case no feral cats in Cedar Mesa. What animals? Later on we found out they are deer. Obviously deer thought they were hidden. They don't think their eyes are reflecting and making perfect clear 4 circles. When we got closer to them (close enough to see deer body shape by head lamp), they sprinted away.

granary?

 

 

zoomed in

Then, again we saw a granary over the cliff. Can you see in the above picture? You see the granary in the crack of huge rock. Also you see our backpacks on the piles of rock below. It was too steep to climb up to the granary. Also it was too steep and the view of the granary was blocked. So we came to the point where we could see a good view of the building. This point, the sun rose.

 

 

 

nicely made granary

For a while of walk, again we found an unnamed ruin site. Some buildings for living (I guess) and a lot of granaries. As you can see in the picture, granaries were built by utilizing rock formation. Front is made with dirt/clay, and the side is pile of rocks. 

 

rock used for cover the entrance

Some granaries had a rock to block the entrance.

inside

This is inside the building. There is a bench or table. The table had a smooth potion (if you can see): the indication it was used to grind seeds/crops.

Bullet Canyon

Soon we finally arrived the confluence and left Kane Gulch and entered Bullet canyon. We realized that 1 night/2 days for 30 miles was too ambitious. If there was nothing to explore, it would be fine, but with so many ruins to see, it was too long. However, we didn't have more food or water to extend the itinerary. Besides we have scheduled itinerary of 2-week trip ahead.

Unnamed ruin in Bullet Canyon

 

 

In desert it gets quickly warm once sun comes up. It was really nice in the sun in the scenic Bullet Canyon. We had lunch in the warm spot in the Bullet Canyon. The left picture is unnamed ruin in the canyon. This was accessible and we were able to see inside the building. It must be a dwelling for living. 

Jail House Ruin

 

Then we spotted big pictograph! Jail House Ruin. This is my favorite ruin in the Bullet Canyon. One is white filled circle, and the middle is white circle with two eyes(?), and the right is with stripes. Is this a mark of clan? These are quite big and will be recognized in far away. You will never miss it. 

We hiked up a hill to check it out the ruin.

Jail House Ruin

The reason why it is called Jail House Ruin is because of this window. Amazing that the window structure with logs are still here like this. Inside the Jail House ruin has another room. Very interesting. In front of another room is a bed? It is nice flat and looks comfy.

Inside

According to the map, there is Jail House spring, but we didn't see any hint of water around. Glad we had all the water carried.

After Jail House Ruin, it was supposed to have another big ruin (Perfect Kiva Ruin), but we somehow missed it (bummer). 

 

Then here was a problem. Towards the end of Bullet Canyon, there was a class III scramble part. It is no problem in summer, but winter, OMG it was all icy. How could we scramble up on the ice? We first thought about going all the way back which was 25 miles almost, but we decided to try.

 

If you slip, you will really fall to the canyon. We had to carefully assess the safest tiny spot, then crack down the ice not to slip. This was extremely scary. I put my camera inside the backpack to be safe (usually it is outside pocket): so no pictures here. After 1 hour of tackle, we finally passed this dangerous spot. 

Finally at the sunset we reached the trailhead. We were tired but still not reached the car. Of course no car at the trailhead. First 2 miles was on the dirt road to go to the paved road. Then 6 miles to the trailhead we started. We hoped to see a car pass by to hitch, but absolutely no car. 1 mile, 2 mile, 3 mile, NO CAR AT ALL. At 4 miles, there was Fedex truck passed but on the opposite lane. At 5 mile, pickup truck passed but again on the opposite lane. At 6 mile, finally arrived at the ranger station. This day we hiked from 3 a.m. to 8 p.m.  After 17 hours of wet feet, it was nice to be in the car with heat....The car's thermometer said 10F (-12C).

 

It was a real hardcore backpacking, and also very exciting. I loved to see countless ruins that were kept intact for long time. It was really nice to explore them in close without anybody around. This was awesome!!! 

 

 

 

Horseshoe Bend, Page, Arizona

During our 2021 winter trip, we stopped by Horseshoe Bend. 

On the day we did a Antelope Canyon tour and we still had a time in the area. In Page, Arizona, there are many great places to visit. One of them was Horseshoe Bend, so why not going there?!

Horseshoe Bend is famous for its picturesque visual, thus most of you must have seen its pictures somewhere. On the internet or picture books, it is one of the most popular ones. Due to that, many people visit there these days. I guess probably because of that now City of Page charges $10 for vehicle to park there. I thought it would be just a place to look at the bend, but there is actually a trail, although just 1.5 mile total. I really liked the mini-walk. 

The picture below is the Horseshoe Bend. Although I knew how it looks like, it is still nice to see in person. I guarantee it would be a different experience to see it there compared to looking at pictures. The bend is nicely there quietly. Many people were looking at this from the viewpoint, but other side there was anybody, which was nice. It was a sunset time: pretty to see the water color and rock color changing every minute.

Horseshoe Bend

Orange color

Most people were looking at the bend, but wow the other surrounding area was beautiful, too! Especially the rock color reflecting warm orange evening sunlight. The rocks looked really orange! Wow. One of the most orange rocks I have ever seen. You can walk some beyond the viewpoint on the rock (off-trail). This portion is much less people and I highly recommend it. 

The word horseshoe is quite often used for the name of a rock or a lake or any landmarks everywhere in the U.S.  First time I heard the word is a horseshoe lake in Monte Bello Open Space Preserve, in Palo Alto, California. I used to live in Palo Alto and hiked a lot in the Open Space Preserve area. There are many different OSPs. Since then many places I go hiking in Arizona, Wyoming, Utah, even Alaska I found horseshoe something on a trail. It is very interesting how people found it a shape like horseshoe in the nature. 

For 2021 Winter trip, the first two hikes are with many people around. The first was Antelope Canyon, then Horseshoe lake. The next one? Absolutely nobody for 3 entire days. The story will come next!