Moon House, Bears Ears National Monument, Utah

 Moon House is one of the most impressive ruins by Anasazi (ancient Native American). The decorations of the ruin is very unique and interesting. These are thought to be used by Anasazi ~800 years ago. Due to possibly drought, they abandoned the area. Despite that, weirdly enough, when I was there I felt like as if they were there yesterday. Also I felt like their souls were still floating around there. I love to see Anasazi ruins and surrounding beautiful canyons in American Southwest. It is so exciting. 

Moon House is located in Cedar Mesa in Bears Ears National Monument. From Highway261, turn into dirt road: Snow Flat road. This road is bumpy. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) states that this is a 2WD road, but I think that it is a 4WD road. Not surprising since it is BLM. After ~8 miles, there is a 2WD parking lot. There is another 4WD (BLM says) road,  a little more than 1 mile to the 4WD parking. We parked at the 2WD parking lot.  No single other car at either parking when we were there. 4WD road is not bad, but quite tilted. 

To visit Moon House, permit is required. $5/person. 20 people per day is permitted to go. During winter time, there is no need to go to the ranger station to validate the permit, because Kane Gulch ranger station is closed during summer (too hot and few people hike in the area) and winter (too cold and few people hike in the area but crazy ones like us). During spring and fall, permit is needed to be validated by ranger at the ranger station. I read on the internet there was no permit requirement long time ago. I read a blog by Utah local saying that he didn't want to share the Moon House information in 90's. Words had spread and when the permit was enforced, he wrote that it was $2. Now $5. Time changes. By internet, more and more secret ruins are revealed. I am sure that before the internet era, only local people knew treasury ruin locations. 

Including 4WD road walk, the total hike is only 4.5 miles, but we took time to explore the main ruin, granaries, and kiva. There is a used path, but don't expect any signs or smoothed trail like National Park provides. The hike first goes down to the bottom of canyon, then goes up to the other side of canyon where Moon House resides. The below picture was taken before we went down to the bottom of the canyon. This is a great overview of Moon House. 

Moon house overview

Outer wall of Moon House

The left picture is the outer wall of Moon House. Can you see many holes in the wall? According to the BLM information, there are 27 holes. BLM call it loop hole, but other people say peep holes. When I actually peep from each hole, it is amazing. Each hole pinpoints the important direction. For example, one hole directs at the granary entry. The other hole to see the trail junction. One to see the ledge with corn grinding area. Some for canyon bottom of left, middle, and right.  Each hole is meaningful. 

Peep holes

The picture in the left is peep holes from inside. One in the right looks like mortar was added after making the hole in the right direction. If these holes were the defensive purposes, their life must have been a really tough one. Were they always being cautious and monitoring enemies? At the same time, considering some holes pinpoints their own balcony for example, I thought that it might be also not trusting their own clan. Looking at grinding area might be to monitor if everyone is actually working, not slacking off. Anyways the truth is unknown. Mr.N thought that these holes are for air ventilation. I disagree, because if they were for ventilation, there is no need to be directed differently. 

Inside of outer wall

It is allowed to go inside through the doorway of outer wall. The left picture is inside. There are 6-7 rooms inside. (BLM note says no entry to the inner rooms). You notice the ceiling is quite black. It must be from fire. Thus I think these rooms are the living rooms. Hiding smoke might be another purpose in addition to defense to have the outer wall, so that enemy don't notice their residency. 

More inner rooms

The above next picture is more inner rooms. At the edge of this picture in the right, you see a different color of rooms are connected. That is the one in the upper picture. Inner rooms might have been added, since colors are different. Maybe family members or tribe expanded? This room has Moon House's signature decoration. White line with double triangles pointing below and white dots above the white line. Also there are some holes at the bottom and top for air flow for fire. 

 

Inside the inner rooms

Inside the inner rooms have also the same decorations. White dots and white line with double triangles. The room in the left picture has white circle not painted in white within the line. Also inside of inner room ceiling is extremely black. Fire must have been used a lot here, possibly for cooking and heating. It could be really smokey! 

Inside room

Some of the wall of inner rooms are consisted of logs. They are neatly tied big and small logs by rushing. Amazing to see those work now. Even logs are all very black (but not burnt, meaning fire was not large). 

More inner rooms

The white dots are the really signature of Moon House. Not only painting, but also small white rocks are decorated in the mortar. It might be hard to see in the left picture, but white small rocks are neatly lined in the mortar in the wall. We never know what that means, but it must mean something and a lot of effort to construct the house in that way. These are the main living (assuming) area and surrounding area has many granaries on the same ledge. 

Granary near the main Moon House. Interestingly, the big flat rock is incorporated into the side. 

More granary. One of the peep holes focus exactly on the entry of this. Maybe important food was stored here?

Two granaries combined. Interesting. 

On the same ledge with main Moon House, but more than 5 minutes walk apart. Very big granary or storage. I assume these are not the living area, because the ceiling is not black. Interestingly only the 2nd from the left entry has small white rocks lined for decoration. 

kiva

On the same ledge with half mile walk, there is a kiva. Circular shape with big logs. Some people don't notice this when one finishes the main Moon house, but this is also worth visiting. 

Overall, Moon House is a great ruin to look at. The unique point is decoration that cannot be seen anywhere else. 

Cosmic Ashtray, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Utah

 Another premier day hike in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. We have hiked many places in Grand Staircase Escalante, but there are tons more to explore. This National Monument is HUGE! We have been to Utah hiking trip (one trip is 2-4 weeks) now 3 times and I feel I would never finish all the hikes there even if I hike every day for the rest of my life. When I went to Utah second time, my coworker said that I had already been there. Yes that is the normal response. In reality, Utah is too large to explore enough. 

We have enjoyed many day hikes and backpacking in Grand Staircase Escalante and I wrote about these below blog entries. I looked back my blog and I realized again how exciting the Grand Staircase Escalante is. This area is really unique and every time I am there I always feel as if I was on the different planet or somewhere unreal world. 

 Hackberry Canyon
Red Top and Yellow Rock
Unnamed Hoodoo
Escalante Natural Bridge  
Lower Calf Creek Falls and Upper Calf Creek Falls 
Golden Cathedral 
Coyote Gulch 
Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Gulch 
Phipps Arch and Bowington Arch 
Devil's Garden

Upon completion of 2024 Winter Utah hiking trip, I will be adding several more entries for this Grand Staircase Escalante series. First one is this entry. Cosmic Ashtray was on the backup hike list of last year, 2023 Winter Utah trip, but we saved for another time. Since we decided to come back to Utah again, we tried it. 

To go to the trailhead, from Highway12, turn into Old Sheffield Road. It is dirt road, but not bad. Out and back hike with 7.6 mils total. It starts with sandy trail, then soon it becomes slick rocks. Sometimes cairns can be seen, but not always. Without GPS, the Cosmic Ashtray is very likely to be missed, because it is just behind a typical rock and nothing prompts a hiker to check it out behind it. But wow once you see behind the rock, an extremely unusual monument suddenly appears. Really really cool, isn't it?

Cosmic Ashtray

Is it blown water or sand or mud? To figure out, I threw a small stone and found the stone stayed on the surface. I don't know how muddy on the day we were there, but it seemed just sand. In fact, we went around and saw the monument from the other side (below picture, another with red circled marks), we realized small curved steps on the last part of the vertical rock. I pasted a zoomed picture below. I looked up on the internet later and found that some people go down to the sandy portion with rope. However, it is sketchy without rope (and even with rope it is not sure) and I am happy to enjoy the monument with smooth sandy surface without any footsteps!

Those curved rocks are found in Utah area made by Native American Anasazi but the curving here was way too big for Anasazi and clearly done by modern climbers. Anasazi's steps, called Moki steps are really small and minimal required curves (amazing how everything was minimal considering them not having any modern climbing gears). 

Cosmic Ashtray

I liked the view from both sides. I probably prefer the first one, because the viewpoint is much lower than the second one. Importantly, this hike is not only for the Cosmic Ashtray. The view on the way is all fantastic. Full day of view-packed day. 

view!

Olympic National Park -- Enchanted Valley Lacrosse Basin O'Neill Pass Loop

SUPER INCREDIBLE place. 

Lolipop hike + side trips = about 60 miles, 14000 feet elevation gain. 

Permit is required from National Park Service for this backpacking.

Day1: Trailhead to FireCreek campsite, 3.4 miles, 350 feet elevation gain

We started late (again), because we were hiking out from Alpine lake traverse in the morning, then drove to the trailhead on Graves Creek road. Having a permit where to camp at is kind of a good thing for a pushing hiker (me, always wants to hike until at least 5 p.m, we can hiker more, more! type) is that we must stop at the place permit says. Meaning we get more rest time in the evening (although the last day we had to hike after sunset because only available permit was 20 mile day hike required). Olympic National Park's permit system is obscure, since this is still trial period (year3). They started permit mandate for the backpacking due to high crowds in the Enchanted Valley. Before the permit system started, camping was dispersed. Obviously, our camping spots used to be dispersed. I like the idea limiting a number of people in the area. Unclear thing about FireCreek campsites (and some others) are unlimited permits available on Recreation.gov and the sites are probably for maximum only 5 groups. We were a little worried how many people there when we arrive at the site after 6 p.m. Luckily there was only one other group there, so we had plenty of space and privacy. The site is right next to Fire Creek with nice stream sound. 

decaying Fire Creek sign

Fire Creek

Day2: Fire Creek Camp to Anderson Pass, side trip to Anderson Glacier Lookout, then to Camp Siberia, 15.5 miles, 4500 feet elevation gain

Enchanted Valley

Day2 starts in the nice forest walk until Enchanted Valley. Passed several official camp (O'Neill Camp, Pirate Creek Camp) and several unofficial dispersed campsites until Enchanted Valley. A number of small falls on the valley in the Enchanted Valley and it was pretty. Interestingly there is a chalet in the valley. 

Chalet

We arrived at the valley at noon, and it was a perfect place to stop and have a nice lunch. We had tuna pack with crackers. We stopped long enough to take off shoes and socks to rest our feet. Some people seemed camping in the valley for 2 days or more: they were reading books, napping on the hammock. 

Way up to Anderson Glacier lookout

On the other hand, we continued hike up to Anderson pass where there is no view. To compensate, we did a side trip to Anderson Glacier lookout. The way to the lookout had wonderful view (left picture). Bonus is that there are so many huckleberries along the trail. I describe it the trail is made by cutting huge bush of huckleberries. The maintenance is not so great and even more huckleberries on the trail. It was nice to have berries on the hard uphill. 

Lookout

The view from the viewpoint was amazing! Left picture explains everything without me explaining. Clearly, it used to be all glaciers, but now moraine lake there. Still beautiful. We took time to enjoy the scenery. 

bear

Looking at the beauty of nature, I felt like something moved in my view. What is that? It was black and I carefully looked at and noticed that it was a bear! Why the hell bear in the moraine? Not many food obviously. Interestingly, he went up to moraine toward glacier and disappeared. Seems no food in glacier, so it was surprising but fantastic experience to see wildlife.

Camp Siberia

Then we went to Camp Siberia and spent a night. Very big site and several groups were there on the day, but still huge space between groups. There was a falling apart lean-to on the site. It was not the quality to be able to called safe and nobody was using it of course.

Day3: Camp Siberia to Lacrosse Pass to Home Sweet Home including side trip to First Divide, 14 miles, 2000 feet up, 3000 feet down, then 2500 feet up 

bear

We started a day with a distant sight of bear (left picture). Early morning is the best time to see wildlife. Good to start a hike early. There are so many bears in Olympic! We hiked up to Lacrosse Pass and the view was amazing.

 

Lacrosse Pass

Mount Steel, Hopper, Duckabush. We had a break here: why not? We didn't see anybody since we left Camp Siberia to go up to Lacrosse Pass and go down to Upper Duckabush camp (2000 feet up + 3000 feet down). We kind of learned why this was not a popular trail. From top of the pass to the bottom there were 20 fallen down trees on the trail and it was clear NPS didn't do much maintenance. Obviously used trail (seems very old) was made to avoid fallen trees looked like NPS has no intention to fix this for long time and in the future as well. However, just 20 of them and it was no too much problem to go through. Last year in the different section in Washington, we had 200+ fallen trees within 0.5 mile on the trail and we had to turn around. The last year's experience now stick to our minds and we think that we need to be careful about non-maintained trail in Washington. Compared to that, this portion is not a problem, but I see many people would complain a lot. 

They cut logs a lot

After coming down, near the Duckabush trail junction, surprisingly, we saw a volunteer group called Gray Wolf Trail Crew. They cleared up all the logs from Home Sweet Home camp--Upper Duckabush---O'Neill Pass--Hart Lake. We were extremely lucky, because those were the way we would go.  Without their effort, we had to continue jumping on fallen trees, but luckily we did only 20! 

Their sign

The volunteer guys were really friendly and nice. The oldest guy is 75 years old, hiked into 17 miles in a day to start a week-long camp and trail work, and hiked out 17 miles in a day. He said that other crews were a little younger (late 60's). Their passion and love to nature, stamina, dedication to help community is amazing. One guy told us about a good side trip for the next day from Marmot lake to Hart pass. 

Home Sweet Home

Home Sweet Home (this is the official name of the campsite) is in the lovely meadow (left picture). There used to be a shelter at this campsite as well, but it was broken and still remnant of logs were everywhere. When I looked at Gray Wolf Trail Crew website, there is a report of their work in Olympic, and they uploaded a picture of shelter at Home Sweet Home 30+years' ago. Wow for 1) shelter was there 2) still picture was stored 3) the guy is around so long in the Olympic wilderness area

We set up a tent and did a side trip to Mount Hopper. 

Fire in the past

First we hiked up to First Divide, then Hopper way trail. Hopper way trail is probably the way to Mount Hopper summit, but trail is not maintained for at least 20 years. We were able to find remnant of trail for some time, but some point we completely lost the trail due to obvious past fire (left picture). Fire made huge amount of fallen trees and it was impossible to find a clue of old trail. Getting late in the day after 5 p.m., we decided to turn around. 

trail sign

Later we talked to one of the volunteer guys and he said Mt Hopper way trail used to be the way to go to Mt. Hopper, but due to the fire, it was not possible now. He said that one needs to go up to the river bank, then it is easier to scramble up to the top. He might be the one who still had Home Sweet Home shelter's picture. It is very kind of him to share the tip with us, since some people keep it secret about those things. He even shared the suggestion to go to Hart pass next day. 

Day4: Home Sweet Home to Marmot Lake-Hart Pass, 10 miles, 2100 feet elevation gain

This day was fantastic. First, we hiked down to Upper Duckabush junction, then set up a camp at Marmot lake, then did a side trip to Hart Lake, Lacrosse Lake and Hart Pass. Trail to Hart Pass got abandoned by NPS, but still used trail can be found, because it is above tree line, meaning there is no fallen trees. According to the trail crew guy, there was a trail from Enchanted Valley to Marmot Lake via Hart pass. Now it is much longer to go from Enchanted Valley to Marmot Lake via official trail. By now I am certain the trail is too hard to follow between Enchanted Valley to Hart pass because there are many trees in the section. Despite that, the view from Hart pass was super duper beautiful. The view at the Hart Pass is my best in the entire trip of 2024. Below 3 pictures are my highlight of this backpacking trip. Memorable. Very lucky the Gray Wolf Trail Crew mentioned the Hart Pass, otherwise I would never see the view in my life.

Hart Lake

Lacrosse Lake

At Hart Pass

Day5: Marmot Lake to O'Neil Pass, Enchanted Valley, Fire Creek Camp, 20 miles, 700 feet elevation gain

bear

Before and after O'Neill pass we saw bear. The first one was on the open meadow, so we were able to observe it for long time. The second one hid in the bush after he noticed us, so it was a moment. It is grateful to see wildlife. Total 4 bears in Olympic National Park!

Glacier

We saw another several good spots to see Anderson Glacier and it was beautiful and massive. The way to Enchanted Valley was all downhill, but long. I got a blister. Due to permit we had to hike 20 miles on the day5 and we exhausted when we finally arrived at Fire Creek Camp at 8:15 p.m. Luckily nobody was camping there, so we exclusively used the site for ourselves. 

bear

Near Enchanted Valley, we saw non-volunteer but National Park Service employed trail crews. It was strange they maintain that part, because trail is pretty good shape that section. They should work on Lacrosse pass and Duckabush section where so many fallen logs on the trail. Or they should do the part the volunteers did (rather than NPS relies on volunteers). 

Day6: Fire Creek Camp to trailhead, 3.4 miles, 350 feet elevation loss. 
Just 3.4 miles to hike out. We met a ranger at the trailhead starting his patrolling  backpacking. We asked about if it was possible to camp in the non-designated but obvious dispersed camp spots. He said that email the National Park and they would give the permit. So if you know the area very well, it can be flexible. 

All days are good weather and beautiful: this backpacking was fantastic!!!

Spider Meadow and Mount Maude, Washington

 In 2023 summer, we planned to backpack Spider Meadow-Buck Pass loop, but didn't do because of road closure. 

In 2024 summer, the road was open, but the trail beyond Spider Meadow was closed due to wildfire. 

So we decided to modify the route and did Spider Meadow-Mount Maude backpacking. Someday we will do Spider Meadow-Back Pass loop or even bigger loop, Glacier Peak loop. 

On day1, we started around 5 p.m. at Phelps Creek trailhead, and hiked 3.5 miles to the junction to the Mount Maude. The reason why we started so late was that we hiked down all the way from Core zone of Enchantments (4000 feet hike down) then, drove, purchased a head lamp in the town (Mr.N's headlamp got broken), then started hiking. Only 650 feet elevation gain in 3.5 miles, so it was easy. On the way we heard noise in the bush and stopped to see what it was. I saw a black bear noticed us and run away. We found a nice dispersed campsite and had a good sleep. 

Upper Ice Lake

On day2, carrying only a day pack and headed for Mount Maude. The trail is abandoned. At the junction there is a USFS sign saying the trail is not maintained. Since this is not a popular trail, bush is overgrown many areas and trail got faint time to time. Positive side was that there were sooooooooo many huckleberries all the way. Each berry was very very big! "BIG more than ever seen" was confirmed by Mr.N who grew up in Montana. Negative side of overgrown was our cloths got soaked, because plants were super wet by recent rain. After 3500 feet elevation gain, we reached at Freezer Pass. As the name indicates, it was cold, but spectacular view of upper Ice Lake was had (above picture). Someday I want to camp by Ice Lake. Another 1500 feet elevation gain from Ice Lake, we summited Mount Maude. Unfortunately, we heard thunder on the way to the summit, and it was approaching and there was no view at the top. We stayed literally 1 minute at the top and went down to the Ice Lake. Luckily once we came down, the thunder was going away, we were able to take a break with great view of lake. We came back to our campsite around 5 p.m. It was an intense day hike of +/- 5000 feet. Then we thought we still have energy to hike 2 more miles to the Spider Meadow to camp there. 

Spider Meadow

Really pretty meadow. Unfortunately all the night it kept raining. Our tent was single wall and it was raining inside the tent.  It was my first time using single wall tent and I really hate it. By morning we got everything wet. We were too wet and still it was raining in the morning and no hope to be cleared up by looking thick clouds, so we decided to hike out. We will come back for the longer loop someday. 

Ladies Pass Loop, Washington

 Another beautiful backpacking in Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington. 

Actually this was the first overnight backpacking before we did the Enchantments during our 2024 summer Washington trip. It was pretty, but at the same time, unforgettably tough camping situation. Below is the story. 

Day1: Chatter Creek Trailhead to Lake Edna 

5.8 miles, 4900 feet elevation gain 

The previous day we arrived midnight in Seattle and this day we shopped at REI and Walmart for fuel, freeze-dried backpacking food, trail mix, bars, and so on. Then we had to drive to the trailhead. Due to that our start time was around 3 p.m. It was a super hot day at least 30C+ (at least 86F or above). Several hikers who were shirtless on the top, came down to the trailhead said to us, "Stay cool" 

Without much shade, I got quite tired after 2000 feet elevation gain. There we found a nice shade in the forest with stream and took a break and got water. We saw some nice camp spots around there and thought about stopping for the day, but then we would have to hike more than 18 miles on the next day. So we pushed ourselves for another 2900 feet elevation climb. Luckily the daylight is long in August.  In the evening we made it to the Lake Edna. 

Lake Edna

We pitched a tent and I took pictures of evening sky (above picture). Pretty! I was happy until this sky observing. Then we were about to prepare dinner. Then we heard the sounds of thunders. Not a good sign. It seems clouds were rolling in. We just ate bars and quickly brushed teeth and went to bed. Storm got closer. Seconds between thunder lightning and sounds got closer and closer and sounds got louder and louder. Inside the tent got wet every minute, because we had a single-wall tent. At one point, we noticed that our crocks were floating in the pond, meaning our tent is in the pond. Apparently we pitched a tent in the lower place where all the water streamed in. We had to get out in the middle of night and had to move the tent to the slightly higher place. In the process, everything got wet. Even after the first storm had gone, the another one came. Then the third one came. Mr.N got really cold and he had to warm water and put in a water bottle and put it in the armpit to avoid hypothermia several rounds. Luckily I had very high quality down jacket from Montbell. This is extremely warm in the very cold environment. (I am not related to Montbell business). 

sunrise 

time to dry everything

Finally a little after the third storm, clouds went away and sun rose. Can you see the picture in the left, water is accumulated in the lower place? Our tent was even lower place than that. Once sun came in, we were happy that we could dry things out. You can see in the picture 1) how we spread out all the things to dry, and 2) how tent is wet by opened vestibule stick to the tent, 3) my warm Montbell down jacket inside the tent. We went down to Lake Edna to get water and we saw a backpacker also getting water. Her group had to move their tent too due to the storm. We celebrated the fact we survived. Lake Edna in the morning was really pretty and it was grateful to see blue sky reflecting on it (below picture). 

Day2: Lake Edna to trailhead

~15 miles, 500 feet up, 4100 feet loss

Lake Edna

Lake Edna

After we took time packing up, we started hiking towards Ladies Pass. Yes, this area's lakes are all ladies names. We saw Lake Edna, Ladies Pass, Upper and Lower Florence Lakes, Lake Mary, Lake Margaret. We didn't pass by, but there are Lake Grace, Lake Alice, Loch Eileen, Lake Ethel in the nearby area. Now Lake Edna is below (left picture). 

Ladies Pass

After a little climb, little down to the Ladies pass. What a spectacular view! It was a nice exception going to the pass by downhill. I take it. 

Marmot family

We saw marmot family. Look at the left picture. Babies are quarreling. Mother marmot is looking at them like, "sigh, again" I asked if it was Mr.N and Mr.F and their mother Ms.L. 

Upper Florence Lake

We took a 0.4 mile spur trail to Upper Florence lake. It was great green. How mesmerizing. We had some snack here to enjoy the color. 

Upper Florence Lake

Looking back Upper Florence was wonderful sight, too. Worth the 0.8 mile walk effort!

Then we enjoyed Lake Mary and Lake Margaret. 

Lake Mary

Lake Margaret

Icicle creek

When we came to the point to cross Icicle creek, we saw a broken bridge. There was no sign to prohibit crossing it. It did not look safe. We looked for the place to ford, but the river was big. We saw two hikers taking break nearby and asked where they crossed the river. The guy said, "Oh we just crossed the bridge" 
Oh ohhhhh kaaaay. We crossed, but it was ridiculous Washington forest service did not do anything about this. The trailhead at the end is not the starting point and we had a choice. 3 mile road walk or hitch hike. We decided to do this way: Mr.N hike 3 miles without backpacks bring a car, and I wait at the trailhead at the end and guard the packs. Luckily Mr.N got a hitch 1 minute after he started walking by very nice local hikers. 

Overall, great scenery with terrible camping night.