日本語は英語の後にあります。
Trail Day4 (4.5 Km +600 meters) (2.8 miles, +1970 feet)
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| Glacier near the hut |
In the morning Mr.N had intestinal issue. He ate 100g of cheese/day previous two consecutive days. I think that caused the issue, because 200g total of European cheese definitely impacts the intestine that is not used to those kinds of cheese.
We started the walk by stopping a grocery store in Courmayeur. Courmayeur is the second choice to start TMB. Some people fly to Milan and take a bus to Courmayeur to start TMB. So there are many hostels and cafes, and a grocery store.
At the entrance of grocery store, there was a cat. He said meow when he saw me. He was really cute and I pet him. Then I gave some pieces of my turkey jerky. He ate them immediately. So cute.
This day’s itinerary was short, because we had reservation at a hut. The reason we had to stay at a hut this day was that the next official campground was very far and wild camp is prohibited.
During the climb to this day’s destination, Rifugio Bertone, Mr.N got
really slow due to intestinal issue. It reminded me of the time he got
pulmonary edema: he was that slow. I thought that we might have to go
back to Courmayeur to bail out. It is always possible to come back to
TMB as long as you are healthy. To keep healthy sometimes you need
courage to bail out. Around noon, we arrived at the hut and chilled. The view was beautiful.
Because Mr.N was sick, it would be nice to stop at noon at the hut (Rif.Bertone). However, the problem was that the next day’s hike would be really long. An ideal place to stay was the next hut, Rig.Bonatti, but Bonatti was not available when we planned the TMB. Because the availability could be different due to last minute cancellations, we decided to ask a receptionist at Bertone about Bonatti.
As a general rule of hut, huts are required to help hikers’ accommodation, because huts are not just hotels, they also function as shelters. They need to care hikers’ safety. It is universal. Japanese huts, in general, are not allowed to reject hikers if they want to stay there.
Also we knew that very popular TMB guide book describes that huts usually call for hikers if the next hut has availability. So Mr.N talked to a receptionist.
Mr.N, “We have reservation here, but we are wondering if we could stay at Rif.Bonnati.”
The receptionist said, “You can try.”
Mr.N said, “My phone doesn’t work here, do you know a way to contact them?”
The receptionist looked annoyed and said, “I don’t know.”
She then shrugged.
It was surprisingly unhelpful.
She
was clearly not willing to help, so we decided to stay at Bertone. This
hut owned a cat (picture in the right), but she was shy and not up for
being pet by anybody. She was very cute though. This hut also had a
black dog.
Then we went to bed. Here bed means a bunk bed.
We went to bed first in the room, because we ate our own food early, but other people were having expensive dinner served by hut. There were a bunch of bunk beds in the room. Total 20 people were sleeping in that room. I slept for a little until people who finished dinner came in. Soon after people went to bed, I couldn’t sleep due to huge snoring sounds. I hoped it would be gone soon, but it never ended. One person’s snoring was huge, and there was another person having normal snoring sound. Apparently somebody was annoyed by the sounds and did “tsk, tsk..” maybe to stop the snoring. It had no effect.
Several times for a moment the snoring stopped, then he farted. It was also a big noise!
He farted a couple of times during night.
I should have brought ear plugs. I thought, “Oh gush, I am so glad this is the only night I have to stay at a hut!”
To be continued...
TMBトレイル４日目：4.5 Km +600 meters
この日の朝、MrNはお腹を壊した。おそらくチーズが原因だろう。前日と前々日に２日連続で１００gのチーズを食べたのだ。合計で２００gのヨーロピアンチーズ。普段ヨーロッパ産のチーズを食べてないと胃の調子は狂うだろう。そこまでひどいものではなかったのでとりあえずハイキングを開始。
この日は街を通る部分があり、スーパーに寄ることができた。ここで食料を調達。コートメイアーという街だ。ここからTMBをスタートする人も多い。２番目に人気のスタートポイントだ。もしイタリアのミランに飛行機で行くとここにバスが到着する。
スーパーではインスタントライスやジャーキーなどを購入しTMB後半の食料をゲット。スーパーの入り口付近に猫を発見！（１枚目の写真）。可愛い！ターキージャーキーを少しあげると嬉しそうに食べた。かわいいー。
この日の予定は短いものだった。目的地は山小屋バートーン。本当はもっと歩きたかったが、キャンプサイトが１日ではとても行ける距離ではないのでこの日だけは山小屋に泊まることになっていた。かなり前に予約したのだが次の山小屋は空きがなく、バートーンしか空きがなかったためこの日の距離は短かった。
バートーンには昼頃着いてしまったので、山小屋の人に次の山小屋に泊まれるか聞いてみたが、”さあ、知らない”と言われた。
なにっ！これが山小屋の態度？？と思ってしまった。TMBのガイドブック（ほとんどのTMBハイカーが持っている本）によると、山小屋は予約するのをヘルプしてくれるということだった。また、日本の山小屋でもハイカー受け入れはどんな時でも一応義務になっている。
バートーン、すごく感じの悪い受付。。多分その女性はオーナーのうちの一人だと思われる。要注意！
そんなこんなで仕方ないのでバートーンに宿泊。
そして夜。２段ベットが１０個くらい並んだ大部屋で寝る。
夕飯の後皆ベットに潜り込み、眠りにつきたかったが。。。寝れない！
いびきがうるさい！本当にうるさい。巨大ないびきが一晩中続いた。明け方まで。そしていびきが一瞬止まったかと思うと巨大な放屁。ハァ。
我々は次の日の５時に出発することにしていたのでイビキが響く部屋を出て歩き始めた。
はー。山小屋に泊まるの１日だけにして本当に、本当に、よかった。
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